Day 36, Monday, September 30, 2019
Prague is filled with many beautiful buildings. We pass this one on our way to the Prague Castle. We had a good laugh. Bob thought that the two guards in the guard-boxes were wax mannequins. They were so motionless!
St. Vitus Cathedral is the first place we visit inside the castle grounds. Our eyes are immediately drawn to the beautiful stained glass windows, and then to the hordes of people!
This sculpture is about a third of the way down this very large cathedral. Everyone has entrance to the cathedral with their entrance ticket to the Castle but they are only allowed into about the entrance of the nave. We bought the next level ticket so we could walk around the whole cathedral and see all the side chapels and the altar up close.
The stained glass windows, created by 20th century Czech artists, are some of the most beautiful we have seen. Each window is unique and their intense colours flood the interior of this Gothic Cathedral.
Here is a close up of some non-traditional stained glass windows. Perhaps my favourite is the window designed by Alphonse Mucha. You may remember we saw his design drawing for this window at the Mucha Museum yesterday. The beautiful rose window on the entrance wall of the cathedral was completed in 1925 and took two years to complete. The inscriptions on the stained glass tell the story of Creation as told in the Bible. This wooden panel from 1630 shows the St. Charles Bridge, built in 1403, that we visited on Saturday. The city doesn’t really look all that different, does it? St. Vitus is portrayed with a rooster by his side, because he was boiled to death in a pot with a rooster! These saints all seem to have had horrible tortuous deaths. St. Vitus never actually even visited this cathedral, but a relic, or pieces of his body, was brought here and the Cathedral was built to honour him. St John of Nepomuk’s tomb is an elaborate baroque silver tomb with angels supporting a draped canopy. It is said to contain two tonnes of silver. St. John is the patron saint of the Czechs. In hte latter part of hte 14th century, King Wenseslas tortured John with fire and then gagged him, put him in a goatskin and had him thrown into the Vltava River! He later declared him a martyr. So much for ‘Good’ King Wenceslas! There are so many people visiting this cathedral that I had to take this photo looking back towards the tomb to get a decent shot.
This interesting fellow perched up high lighting the way is on the corner of a balcony that leads to the King’s private chambers. The King was able visit the church whenever he wants without being seen by others. This is the chapel dedicated to St. Wenceslas, the king and patron saint of all the Czech lands. The lower part of the walls are decorated with more than 1300 gems and the joints between them are covered with gold. The walls are covered in frescoes and the relics of St. Wenceslas are kept in the red draped case. As we are leaving, the sun comes out for a bit and shines through the stained glass windows casting coloured light into the cathedral. Note the lady posing behind Bob. We seem to see her everywhere we go today and she is always posing ‘just so’ for a photo. I’m not sure her and her husband are even looking at the cathedral as anything but a backdrop for her photographs. As beautiful as this cathedral is, I still love some of the simpler details that are easy to overlook with all the grandeur surrounding us. A view of the Cathedral. This front entrance isn’t used by tourists, we entered on the end of the cathedral behind the building with orange panels.since the 16th century, the Vladislav Hall in the Old Royal Place, was used for coronation festivities and banquets, knights’ tournaments and markets for luxurious goods. The Vladislav Hall still is used for state functions. It is an enormous room. The Old Palace contained the Land Rolls, where all matters regarding property rights and criminal law were recorded. An interesting door handle. One room had chairs which are almost the same as the ones my Swiss grandfather used to make, only he put more carving and decoration on his.The present day appearance of St. George’s Basilica dates to the reconstruction after a devastating fire in 1142. Now it is used for short-term art exhibitions.
We visit St. Georges 12th century crypt and see this rather bizarre sculpture. I did some research and discovered that it is “a Late Gothic Statue of Brigita, representing a dead and decaying girl´s body. It is a symbol of impermanence. A legend says that it was made by a sculptor, who killed his girlfriend and wanted to create her statue before he was executed. However, he was only able to make it as a dead body, because of his despair.” ~.www.prague.cz On the way out we see this collection of relics, but have no idea who they are. These relics seem a bit bizarre. Not only was the poor person usually tortured and killed but then their bones were carted off, often to several different locations and put on display. Hmmm. This is the Golden Lane. This lane of tiny houses was built against the northern wall of the castle. These tiny houses were occupied until World War II and have been preserved so that the character of this lane has not changed. From 1916 to 1917 house No. 22 was inhabited by the writer Franz Kafka. The name of the Lane is derived from goldsmiths who used to live there. I struck up a conversation with a gentleman who told me that he and his father were both goldsmiths and that the tools have not changed at all. He also said his father died young and that he quit because some of the processes involved are very toxic. The houses are tiny and have tiny doors. This was a fortune teller’s house whose predictions about the early fall of the Third Reich resulted in her being arrested and tortured to death by the Gestapo. An amateur historian who saved many copies of old films that were intended for disposal during the Second World War lived here. We watch one film that showed scenes of Prague and this Golden Lane. It looks much like it does today.We almost missed seeing a huge display of old armaments and armour. It was quite interesting. Some the swords have pistols built into them, or axes attached! And then there is the torture chamber. These places give me the creeps. It is just so hard ot think of people subjecting each other to such pain and terror. Bob is standing beside an Iron Maiden, which has spikes inside just long enough to pierce the body and make sure that the person inside dies a slow painful death. There are two spikes placed so that they will pierce the eyes of whoever is placed inside, and take a look at that chair! It is enough to give me nightmares.After the torture chamber we see some great views of Prague… can you spot our TV Tower? It is hard to miss.
As we leave the castle the changing of the guards marches past. A couple of the guards have their hats blown off by the wind but they just keep marching, although they did smile! It was crazy windy today and a bit cold so it was a good day to be inside.Walking past the Cathedral towards the exit I thought to look up, and yes, there were gargoyles! I love gargoyles, in case you didn’t know. This shrub was near the exit. I have no idea what it is and wonder if anyone else might know?
Hi Trudy. I am really enjoying your photos and fabulous descriptions of your adventures! Hugh and I were in Prague in 2010 and had quite an experience at the Castle. Hugh’s brother lives in Prague and knew one of the masons that was working on some outside restoration on the cathedral. We ended up climbing scaffolding to the edge of the massive gutters where the view of the city was amazing. We were up close and personal with those gargoyles and I have some great photos looking through the flying buttresses. There were signatures of the sculptors carved into the stone where no one would ever see them, except on scaffolding!
Hugh, his brother and the mason then jumped the 2 foot gap between the platform and the gutter where they could enter the ceiling of the cathedral to see the inside structure. I was already at my limit once I had climbed the scaffolding so stayed there enjoying the view while they went exploring. No hard hats and no others safety equipment of any kind were to be seen! It was an experience we will never forget and thought I would share with you.
Safe travels to you and Bob.
Hi Loretta, What an amazing experience you had! I think you were quite brave climbing that high on the scaffolding. There were still men working on scaffolding high up on the outside of the church when we were there. It was an incredibly windy day and we thought it would be quite dangerous on that scaffolding with the fierce gusts of wind. As you say, no safety ropes, hard hats or any other safety precautions anywhere we could see. It would be amazing to go explore the ceiling of the Cathedral. Did Hugh take any photos when he was in there? For sure that is an experience you will always remember. Thanks so much for sharing.