Reims to Paris

Day 80, Thursday, November 16, 2023

Today we drove to Pairs, in the rain!  This will be our last stop before we fly home.  It is a two and a half hour drive and we both just want to get to our next airbnb and get settled.  Sightseeing in the rain isn’t much fun.

There is no way I would want to be navigating using a paper map.  The roads can be very complex…like this interchange below.

We pass through several tunnels with lots of traffic. Bob does an excellent job following my navigational instructions, but I think we will both be quite happy to return our car tomorrow and use the metro to get around Paris.  

These two buildings, or maybe it is just one, looked so wonky.  Not sure why anyone wants a build a high rise that looks like it is falling over?  It is still pouring rain. but we are almost to our destination.

On our way to our bnb we passed a church with four angels high on its steeple.

I wasn’t able to find out the name of the church, but really liked the angels.

This lovely house with its beautiful fall colours was just down the street from our bnb.  

We parked on the street close to our apartment to unload but needed to move the car for the night.  As Bob pulled into the parking spot the car made a strange noise.  Upon investigation we realized that a rough curb had caught the side of the tire, tearing it and scraping the hubcap.  We return the car tomorrow morning…we almost made it the whole three months without any car issues….this little incident problem ended up costing us $500!

Our twelfth and last Airbnb on this trip.  It was difficult finding a place when we were booking last Spring.  Our apartment is very small, probably the smallest that we have had on this trip.  In the photos it actually looks a bit bigger than it is in person!  Not ideal for the end of our trip but it will do.

 

Quiet Day in Reims, France

Day 76, Sunday, November 12, 2023

Our apartment in Reims was easy to find and it has parking right outside the door, which is great.  It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but there are lots of big trees and it is in a quiet location.Our Airbnb host met us at the apartment yesterday and he had a little box of six macarons and a jar of his own honey for us as an anniversary gift for us.  He only spoke French but we were able to communicate without any problem…after two and half months in France I am feeling more comfortable speaking French.

The apartment is old, but it is clean and has everything we need.  The only thing that might be a problem is that the radiators have no way to adjust the heat.  There is a set temperature, and it doesn’t feel all that warm. It is cold and rainy outside and we are both quite happy to stay home today.  Bob seems to have recovered  quite quickly from his Covid but it is taking me me a bit longer.  I work on the blog while Bob does laundry and researches what we will be doing in Reims.

Dijon, France

Day 71, Tuesday November 7, 2023

I forgot to post the drawings I did at the Lyon Zoo, so here they are.  It has been a long time since I have been able to draw at a zoo.  It was a cool day and most of the animals were out and easy to see.

Giraffes are hard to draw, they always look rather strange with their long thin necks and muscular bodies.

The monkeys are always fun but they tend to move around a fair bit.

Too bad it was time to go, I was really enjoying this, but the clouds were very dark and we wanted to get home before it rained.

I was really tired on the drive to Dijon after we left Cluny and when we arrived at our apartment I started to feel very congested…full of a head cold.  Darn…  Here is our apartment, it is tiny but has everything we need.  It is also on the third floor which was more like the sixth floor because the ceilings were so high and there were two flights of stairs for each floor.

This is our apartment building.  We are way up in the attic with dormer windows, on the back side of this building.

Here is the view from our windows over the roof tops.

We both stayed home today.  I wasn’t  feeling well and we were both happy to have a quiet stay home day.

Lyon

Day 66,  Thursday, November 2, 2023

When travelling for such a long time it is essential to schedule in some down days.  Today was one of those.  We drove to a big grocery store to replenish our supplies, did a couple loads of laundry, researched and planned activities for our stay here in Lyon, and worked on the blog…I seem to be forever playing catch up with my posts!  It is also cold, wet and windy so it is a good day to stay home.

Our apartment is on the sixth floor of an older building on the outskirts of Lyon.  On the way to Lyon we were commenting on how great it was that there was an elevator…but when we arrived last night we discover that it was out of order!  Yesterday was All Saint’s Day, which is a French National holiday, so there were no repairs scheduled until today.  Last night we only took up the bare essentials with the hope that the elevator would be repaired today.  We were lucky and by mid afternoon it was once again in working order.

Our hosts are an older couple who took great pride in explaining everything we needed to know about the apartment. They only spoke French and I was pleased that I was able to understand and respond in French.  All that Duolingo online French is paying off!

We had a very frightening experience last night.  In the dark last night we drove past the gate to the apartment complex and had to turn around so we could get back to the gate.  Bob put his signal light on and just as he started to turn left a young man on a standing electric scooter came flying down the hill past us.  He swerved and barely missed hitting us…literally by inches.  He was going very fast and he was out of sight in seconds.  It  really shook us up.  If he would have hit us it would have been an awful accident.  What an idiot!  He was dressed all in black, had no lights, was going way too fast, and he was very lucky he wasn’t seriously hurt or killed.

 

 

Carcassonne to Cannes and The Fonsernes 9 Locks

Day 49, Monday, October 16th, 2023

Today we travel from Carcassonne to Cannes.  It is a 4 1/2 hour drive if we use the toll highway and 7 1/2 hours without so we decide to pay the tolls.  We make a side trip to Beziers to visit the Fonsernes 9 Locks.  On our way there we drive by a very strange design on Google maps… I wonder if it might be some sort of irrigation system?

A bit of research solves the puzzle.  Who knew?

‘The Étang de Montady, or Pond of Montady is a drained pond or lagoon.. It was built by monks and wealthy Béziers landowners during the second half of the 13th century. The Étang de Montady was drained to provide farmland by making radial ditches from a single center point out to the extremities.  The water flows to this center point and is then drained by sixteen vertical shafts to an underground culvert.’~ info from Wikipedia.

It was a bit of a challenge to find the locks.  First of all we drove to the town of Beziers where we thought we would find the locks, but there were no locks in sight.  We did find a spot to have our lunch though, overlooking a pretty river and the Cathedral Saint-Nazaire.

We check at the location again and this is what google maps tells us!  Really??  We need to get from the blue arrow to the red pin…and we do it!  Pretty impressive navigating and driving I think! I wanted a photo of this pretty bush covered with orange berries, and Bob hams it up by giving himself an orange moustache.

The Canal du Midi connects the Mediterranean Sea to Toulouse.  It has 360 navigable kilometers and there is a drop of more than twenty meters from this location to the town of Beziers.  The locks were built in 1676 to deal with that change in elevation.

We watched these two boats make their way through the locks.

The water level begins to lower…as the water pours into the basin below.

Soon the water levels in the two basins are equal and the lock gates open…

and the boats advance to the next basin and this process is repeated 7more times.

This boat with four couples from South Africa barely has room to squeeze through the open gates.

The 9 locks of Fonseranes have a total of 8 ovoid-shaped basins and 9 doors and in 1996, they were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as is the entire Canal du Midi.

At the bottom of the locks there is a gate that appears unused for some time.  It has grown a water garden on its backside.

Back on the highway we pass through yet another toll booth.  This one is pretty big.  The crazy thing is that on the other side there are no lanes.  Once you pay your toll the gate goes up and all the cars need to merge back onto the highway.  It is kind of crazy.

Bob says he can tell we are getting close to the French Riviera because there are expensive cars on the road.  A Lamborghini costs anywhere from $221,000 to more than three million dollars!  I can’t even imagine driving a car that is that expensive.

The turn off to Cannes is a bit convoluted…we have had a lot of strange routes on this trip.

We check into our next Airbnb…only this one has palm trees and a view of the ocean in the distance.

 

 

Montrésor and Sarlat le Canéda, France

Day 33, Saturday , September 30, 2023

We leave for Sarlat la Canéda in a heavy fog.  It is quite beautiful , but not the easiest driving.

Before too long the sun is shining and we are driving through farmland that looks a lot like Alberta. 

Then we drive through a beautiful forested area.

We stop for a visit and lunch in Montrésor which is listed as one of France’s 140 most beautiful towns.  The church is small but interesting.  The church was built to house this white alabaster tomb for three family members.  The stained glass windows and the carved wooden stalls all date from the 16th century when the church was built.

We walk along the river which has interesting information plaques and great views of the Château de Montrésor and the village.

Loved the reflections in the river.

There are some very large, very old trees along the way.  Bob is standing on the bridge just behind the tree.

Many of the houses are built right into the stone cliffs.  This little shop is an example, the ceiling and back wall are all natural stone.

I loved this sign in the window. It says “Turn off the TV and look at the sky.”

I also love peeking in windows and open gates whenever I have the chance.  You never know what you might see.  I wonder what happened to the owner of this little bookstore?

This gate looked interesting…

and it hid this tiny garden complete wth a chair, a bottle of wine and a very interesting statue.

The half-timbered houses date back to the 15th century!  In the background are the towers of the Medieval Keep of the Château de Montrésor.I loved this carved lizard, which is the symbol of Montrésor.

The Château de Montrésor is a medieval castle with a Renaissance mansion built in the grounds.  We decided not to tour the château and soon we are back on the road to Sarlat.

The canola fields are just starting to turn yellow here, much later than back home.

I have a chance to sneak a few sketches of people waiting for a bus at the gas station when we stop to fill up.  There hasn’t been much opportunity for this so far this trip.I notice that the leaves are staring to turn colour…winter is coming!

The hillsides are dotted with charming little villages.

Our bnb in Sarlat is right in the heart of the old town.  On the Airbnb website it says “Come and discover the entertainment, restaurants, shops, the famous market of the city with its local products, surrounded by the walls and history of the city of Sarlat. All at your feet.”  It should be interesting, we have never stayed right in the heart of an old city before. The circled windows belong to our apartment.

 

The Apocalypse Tapestry in Angers, France

Day 23,  Wednesday, September 20th, 2023

Oops, just realized that I forgot to publish this way back on September 20th!

The Chateau d’Angers is huge..

The fortress has 500 m long ramparts and 17 towers and was constructed in 1230. Here is an arial view.

There is a lot of reconstruction happening on the north wall.  I can’t believe how rickety that elevator looks. You wouldn’t catch me riding on that.

The entrance of the castle is impressive.But then we enter the display area for the Apocalypse Tapestry and we are utterly astonished.  This is the largest medieval tapestry in the world!

The tapestries turn the corner, and continue down another long wall and then turn yet another corner.  It is a magnificent sight. This information gives a brief history of this incredible tapestry.

We are entranced and walk back and forth, each time noticing something new.  This is like a medieval graphic novel.  The panels are in order and tell a story.  

Here is one of the panels that has been partly lost.  When the tapestry fell out of fashion it was used for things like floor mats, insulation for orange trees and horse stables, and to plug holes in buildings.   Can you imagine?  It has had extensive restoration, but it is still so amazing that so much of it has managed to survive this long.

A close up of the weaving.  It is very fine work and both the front and back are equally legible – the ends of wool having been meticulously tidied up. This means it’s possible to know what the original colours were like, unfaded by sunlight or time.

This panel manages to show men underwater and captures the transparency of the water.

Another interesting panel…well, they are actually all very interesting.

One more view of the long wall around the corner from the entrance. It really is awe inspiring.

We explore a bit more, and climb the ramparts.  This view is over the roof of the Tapestry museum towards the manor house and the chapel.

We were way up where the people in this photo are.

All too soon we are back on the road to our next destination, Tours France.  A detour causes some confusion for a bit but after some fantastic navigating and equally great driving we are soon at our new bnb.  It is small but I think it will be just fine.

Tours, France

Day 24, Thursday, September 21, 2023

It is raining on and off all day long so I decide I that I am having a pyjama day!  We do a bit of travel planning for the next week, watch some TV,  and I got caught up on our blog.

Bayeux Tapestry, France

Day 18, Friday, September 15, 2023

We are leaving Rouen and driving to our next bnb in Dinard. We are stopping in Bayeux to see the Bayeux Tapestry.  I manage to get a photo of the monument at the traffic circle as we drive into Bayeux.  

. The Bayeux Tapestry Museum.The tapestry is located in a darkened room with only the tapestry illuminated, no photos allowed. It was created in the 11th century, so it is almost a thousand years old!  It is actually an embroidered cloth, and not a tapestry.  There is another room with a replica of the tapestry displayed where photos are allowed.  The original tapestry is displayed in a very similar manner.  This monumental work is almost 70 metres long and 50 centimetres tall.  It depicts the events leading up to the Norman conquest and culminating in the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

Here are a few close ups of some of the 56 scenes depicting the events leading up to the Norman Conquest of England, led by William, Duke of Normandy challenging Harold II, King of England, and culminating in the Battle of Hastings in 1066. Can you find Adam and Eve in the frieze running below the main panel?  or the fox and the grapes from Aesop’s fables?

The tapestry is extremely beautiful. The figures are so expressive and often show emotions through body and head positions.  I loved this scene that shows men walking through the water to get into their boats, with bare feet, their clothing held high, and carrying their dogs.  It is such a clever way to show the transparency of the water.

Here is a closeup of the embroidery stitches.There are only 14 colours used in the tapestry:  Dark red, Terracotta, Orange, Gold, Pale Yellow, Beige, Dark Blue, Mid Blue, Pale Blue, Dark Green, Pale Green, Olive Green, Sage Green, Blue – Black.

There are only four embroidery stitches used to make this tapestry: stem stitch, chain stitch, split stitch using two threads, and couching stitch, or “Bayeux stitch”, this last being used to fill in coloured surfaces.

There are other displays as well.  I thought this chain mail was amazing.  The detail and fineness of the work is incredible.  Just think how many of those tiny iron circles had to be made for just this piece of protection.

We leave the museum and find this statue in a little garden on our way to…

Bayeux’s Notre Dame Cathedral.

The light in this cathedral is beautiful.

 

The stained glass has a lot of blues, pinks, reds and yellows.

The crypt is open so we climb down the stairs to find these wonderful pillars, each painted with panels of angels playing different musical instruments.

As we leave the cathedral I notice a small shop with a sign for Dentelle, so go in and chat with this nice lady about making bobbin lace.  My maternal grandmother used to make this type of lace and I have her lace pillow and some of the bobbins that my grandfather made for her. I also have a French book of patterns but I have never tried to make any.  Maybe I could find some instructions online and give it a try. One more view which shows the unique towers on the front of the church.

We still have a two hour drive to our next Airbnb in Dinard.  All goes well until we come to the bridge on top of a dam, just a short distance from our apartment.  We wait about 15 minutes while part of the bridge moves to allow four sailboats to pass from one side to the other.  Not sure exactly how it worked as we were a bit too far back to see what was happening.  Look closely and you can see the mast of one of the sailboats as it crosses.

There is a big cruise ship in the harbour as well.We must be tired because we have a hard time finding our apartment, in spite of driving right by it about 4 times!  Google maps seems to show it in the wrong place, but we eventually manage to sort it out and our host is waiting for us. She only speaks French but I understand most of what she is telling us about the apartment. Here is our home for the next five days.

Rouen, France

Day 10 Thursday, September 7, 2023

The countryside during our drive to Rouen often reminds our of back home in Alberta. Rolling hills, farmers fields, crops ripening…. except that we have no idea what these towers are, there are mile long stone walls around farmers fields, and I wonder what the giant tubes of paint are about?

This street is the highway to Rouen.  The buildings in the villages are so old, and so interesting.  I wish I had time to stop and draw some of them.

We see a sign on the highway for the Sainet-Marie church in Vexin and decide to visit it. There is reconstruction work taking place on the front of the church.  We have seen a lot of church reconstruction taking place on this trip.The church is old and has interesting side aisles with wooden beams and ceilings.  As we were leaving I managed to somehow spill most of my thermos of hot tea all over our iPad!  The iPad seems OK, but the keyboard case I think is toast.  Not very happy about that…

We see the first of many wind turbines, and a lot of houses and farms have solar panels installed.

We stop for lunch in a beautiful town called Ville de Fleury Sur Andelle.  There are flowers planted everywhere.

They also have bee houses for wild bees.

Did you notice the Swiss chard planted in this flower bed?

We arrive in Rouen, and check into our apartment. It is really cute and comfortable looking.

So…we decide we will go get some groceries…was that ever a mistake.  Google maps  instructions are lagging a bit behind where we are, which causes some issues, then the road we need to go on is blocked by a huge crane and a bus in an underpass, so we have to go a different way.  It is a nightmare, we keep somehow missing the correct road.  Due to the lag in directions we miss making some of the correct turns,  and some of the directions try to take us down a one way street!  We finally find a spot to pull over and regroup.  We have tried to get to three different grocery stores with no luck whatsoever, so we go back to our apartment, which is also a bit of a challenge.  Not sure we have ever had so much trouble navigating and driving anywhere!So, we have toast, plums and a banana for supper, and lucky Bob gets a hard boiled egg

It has been long day and we are both exhausted. Oh, and did I mention that it is 34° today?  

Verazdin, Croatia to Vienna, Austria

Day 89,  Friday, November 22, 2019

You may wonder why we went to Verazdin, seeing as there really wasn’t all that much to see or do there?  It has to do with something called the Schengen Agreement. The Schengen Area is an area with 26 European countries that have officially abolished all passport and other types of border control at their mutual borders.

The catch is that you can only stay 90 days in these Schengen Countries once every six months. Our holiday is 92 days, so we needed to go to a country that was not part of the Schengen Agreement so that we would not have any problems.

Most people we have spoken to don’t know anything about this rule…but then most people don’t spend more than 90 days on holidays in a six month period!

However, there are going to be changes to travelling in Schengen countries that will affect anyone travelling to Europe.   “World travelers privileged with visa-free entry to the Schengen member states will also be affected in the near future from recent changes that the EU has decided to implement.  The most important change is that as of January 2021, travelers will need to apply for an online authorization, and wait for its approval before heading to the EU.”

It is very foggy when we start our drive to Vienna, only we soon realize that it is smog, not fog!  It smells awful and bothered my eyes and chest. It clears up for a bit but then we drive back into the band of smog that stretches across the countryside.  We have never seen anything quite like this before.One of the many small villages in Croatia.  Most of these villages only have one row of houses along the highway, no side streets at all.  Notice the pretty yellow and purple chrysanthemums growing along the fence.  We saw lots of these flowers along the way. One fairly long stretch of the road has a shrine every 300 to 500 metres, and each one had fresh flowers placed in front of it. Another little village.  We don’t see many people about and think that they probably have a hard time keeping people from moving to bigger urban centres. The highway mainly passes through farmland, and I quite like all the trees along the side of the road.
We finally get a bit of sunshine.  There are winter crops planted which are just beginning to grow that are many different shades of green. We get to Bratislava about 3:00 pm, return our rental car and catch the Flixbus one last time back to our apartment in Vienna.  We are surprised how quickly it gets dark now.  This is photo taken on the bus just after 4:30pm. We catch an Uber from the Main Bus Depot.  Twenty euros well spent.  We are dropped off at our apartment door, which is the same apartment we had a couple weeks ago in Vienna.  It almost feels like coming home.  In three more sleeps we will really be home.