The Cadre Noir of Saumur, France

Day 31,  Thursday, September 28, 2023

The Cadre Noir of Saumur , a renowned French riding academy, offers very few shows and Martinales throughout the year.   We extended our stay in Tours by a couple days so that we could see this show on the only day that it is takes place in September.

“The Martinales of the Cadre Noir are an opportunity to watch the riding masters of the Cadre Noir at work.  There are 40 riding masters, and only three are women.  Commentary is provided to give the audience an appreciation of the work involved in training the horses in jumping, long reins, the airs above the ground, and classical riding. Unfortunately it is only in French, but it really doesn’t matter… watching the horses and their riders is enough.  More information and some of the history of the Cadre Noir is available at this link. https://www.ifce.fr/en/cadre-noir/the-cadre-noir/ if you are interested,

When we arrive we are surprised to see how many people are here for the Martinales…13 tour buses and the parking lot is full of cars!  I think it will be hard to find seats… but I forgot that there was assigned seating and we have fantastic seats. We are front and centre in the arena!  The horses pass by just a couple of feet in front of us.

There are no photos allowed during the show but there are photos outside of the arena so I take photos of the photos.  We see all of the following during the hour long Martinale show.

Classical riding…

the Courbette…

the Croupade…and the Cabriole…Precision riding

The whole show was wonderful.  At the end of each segment of the show the horses would turn to the audience and their riders salute…they happened right in front of us.  It felt like we were being personally saluted, they were so close to us.

One more photo at the end of the performance.  The staircase is in the centre of the seats and these were our seats!

After our lunch we see this fellow practicing outside in one of the 18 outdoor arenas.  I missed the shot of him practicing a handstand on his cantering horse.

We also have a tour of the stables which house 500 horses!  

Behind the stalls it is busier.  The horses are fed with an automatic feeding and watering system and the waste is disposed of using a conveyor belt which runs underground at the back of each stall.  The tack for each horse is also kept behind its stall.  

There was opportunity to pet the horses. I made friends with this beauty.

A different route home took us past farmers harvesting sunflowers…

and we crossed the river on this very old looking bridge.

Mont St. Michel, France

Day 22,  Tuesday, September 19, 2023

Here we are walking out to Mont St. Michel.  It is a three kilometre walk from the car park to this UNESCO World heritage site.  Be warned, this is a photo heavy post.

The sheep under the bridge attract a lot of attention.  I wish I had time to sit and draw them, but Mont St. Michel beckons…

Almost there!

We climb the ramparts right after the entrance gates while the sun is shining.  There is a chance of rain this afternoon. The Abbey church dominates the skyline.

The streets below are crowded and more people are arriving by the minute.  The group with the white hats are pilgrims from Southern France.  I spoke to one of the ladies later in the day who sat by us while we were having lunch.

I love the little conical roof over the dormer window.

The streets are narrow and they fill up quickly.  We are told that in high season you can barely walk through the streets as there are so many people.

Soon we are among the hordes of people climbing the tall narrow 319 steps to the Abbey.

We bought our tickets online so we get to walk right past a long line of people waiting to buy tickets.

This model of the abbey shows the back side which is only visible if you walk on the sands  at low tide or travel by boat.There are usually 5 monks and 7 nuns who live at the abbey and there are only 25-30 people who actually live on Mont Saint Michel. We sat and listened to part of the mass, from the side of the church.  The singing was really lovely and I found it interesting that the nuns and the priest sat on the floor of the church during the service.

Next we walk through the cloister with its many narrow columns and a view of the church tower.

The Host’s room has two enormous fireplaces. Here I am standing in one and the little round circle is looking up the chimney towards the sky.  This is where food was prepared and where the Abbot received important visitors.  The bottom photo is the Refectory where the monks ate their meals.

Another view of the Host’s room with its beautiful arched ceiling.
There are so many interesting doors in this abbey.

The Crypt des Gros Pillars (Big Pillars’ Crypt) with its ten huge pillars was built to support the choir in the abbey above.There are so many smaller rooms and interesting spaces to be explored.  This one is off the side of the crypt.When the Abbey was used solely as a prison in the 1800’s, this huge wheel was was used to haul supplies up to the abbey.  Prisoners walking inside the wheel were able to raise and lower a cart along a stone ladder inclined along the rock wall.  

Here you can see where the cart was hauled up the side of the abbey.

The Salle des Chevliers or Knight’s room was most likely used by the monks as a place of meditation and for copying and illustrating manuscripts.  

When we walk out into the gardens we see that the ocean is now at low tide and the sand bars are visible all around Mont St. Michel.We hear shrieks and peals of laughter and realize that is is coming from the people out walking on the sands now that the tide is out.  Some of them are thigh deep in the water!  There are a lot of people out there, some of them way off in the distance.  Thanks, but I am happy to pass walking in mud and cold water.

We stop at this little art gallery and I have chat with the artist.  She has a variety of different styles and media, and I found her work very appealing.

It starts to rain so we duck into the Parish Church of St. Peter for a well needed sit down.  I draw the statue on the wall while Bob rests and then goes for a little walk about so that I have time finish my drawing.

I forgot to see if there was plaque saying who the sculpture was.Bob took interesting photos of the inside and outside view of these two stained glass windows.

People are still coming and going…lots of people!

This photo of the bell tower just barely shows the golden statue of St. Michael threatening a dragon, who represents evil, with his sword.  St. Michael is perched 156 metres high, is 4.5 metres tall and weighs 520 kg. The statue is made of gilded copper and serves as a lightning rod.

We wander the back streets which most people seem to ignore. There are lots of steps…. …interesting details…

…narrow streets… …crooked roof lines…

…fantastic rooftop views…

…more steps and stone walls…

…the narrowest street ever…This is Cuckold’s Alley!

I think I may have mentioned steps…

and buildings tucked into the strangest places…

…and more steps with a tiny view of the ocean…

…which leads us back to the Main Street.

Time to cross the drawbridge and leave Mont St. Michel.

We say goodbye to Mont St. Michel after 7 hours of exploring this fabulous island.  

Day 21,  Monday, September 18, 2023

Yesterday was a stay at home day. No photos, just relaxing and catching up on my blog and planning the next part of our trip.

Fecamp and Étretat, France

Day 17,  Thursday, September 14, 2023

We are driving to Fécamp to see the cliffs and the English Channel and then to Étretat to see some famous stone arches.  On the way we see a truck full of some sort of root vegetable.  Then a bit further along the road we see long piles of this same crop.  Perhaps sweet potatoes?

Near Fécamp we find a lookout spot for the coast, and a beautiful spot for lunch.

There is an 11th century church here but it is closed as it needs restoration and is not safe to enter. We discover a semaphore station built in the early 1900’s on the same site as an old lighthouse built in the early 1800’s.  There are also more World War II bunkers here.  Not surprising since they were built all along the coast of France.  The three pillars were to hold radar equipment, but it was never installed, and there are several Tobruks,  or machine gun nests.One of several large bunkers.

This is a view of the cliffs in the other direction. They stretch as far as we can see.

We find parking in Étretat fairly close to the beach and we get our first glimpse of the stone arches this area is famous for. This is the Falaise d’Aval.

And this is the Falaise d’Amont. The cliffs are high and the beach consists of fairly large pebbles, no sand here.  Falaise means cliff or clifftop.

I find a spot to sit and sketch.  When I first started drawing a group of high school students arrived at the same rock I am sitting beside and their teacher gave them hammers so they could chip off pieces of this big rock I am leaning against.  Interesting, seeing as are signs say that the stones on the beach are protected and can not be removed.  Then there was a lot of commotion and screaming…a flock of  seagulls flying overhead pooped on many of the students!  I escaped such an indignity but my sketchbook was not so lucky.  Too funny…I gave the students a wet wipe to clean up and they were very grateful.

Here is the view…

…and here is my sketch.I have seen this view in so many paintings, and finally, here I am seeing it in person.

Monet painted many canvases here at Étretat and nearby Fécamp.

Le Grand Cours de Nu…The Big Nude Class!

Day 16,  Wednesday, September 13, 2023

Bob went to the Nature Museum and I had a quiet morning, resting up after yesterday for my art class tonight.  One of the nice things about Rouen Museums is that there are no entrance fees, they are all free. “The Rouen Natural History Museum is the 2nd most important natural history museum of France after the museum of Paris thanks to its collections richness and diversity (ornithology, ethnography, botany).”  ~from Rouen Tourist Information

More than 800 000 items are gathered there and half of them are exhibited.I walk to the Musée de Beaux Arts for my Grands Cours de Nu, or the Big Nude Class.  It takes place in one of the museums exhibition rooms.  35 people attend this class and there is a male and a female model on two separate stands.  We were encouraged to move between the two models whenever we want.  It was interesting and a different format than other life drawing classes I have attended.  There were four instructors who circulated and offered help as needed.  After the break I found five young women gathered around my sketchbook…seems I have fans of my work!  They asked if they could take photos and wanted to know about my drawings.  The instructors were also gave me very positive feedback.  Lots of fun!
The strange line on the back view is part of a tattoo. I usually don’t draw tattoos, but this one followed the contours of the back so I included it.

Bob meets me outside after the class and we sit for awhile to watch people dancing the Tango outside the Museum before heading home.

Rouen the Musée Le Secq des Tournelles (The Iron Museum), Rouen

Day 14, Monday September 11, 2023

It is raining when we leave this morning and we take a  photo of our reflection in a store window.

We visit the Musée Le Secq des Tournelles, the Iron Museum, which is housed in an old church in Rouen.

The main themes represented are shop and property signs, cutlery, trade tools, objects of embellishment and enjoyment, and equipment and decoration for churches, homes and doors, particularly locks, coffers and caskets.  The first photo is looking down from the second floor. There is a lot to see here.

I take the opportunity to sketch a little dragon wrapped around a post.  I love dragons, and there are several wrought iron ones here.

There was a class of high school students here when we first arrived, and they were all sketching objects in the museum as well.

Bob finds all the locks very interesting, and there are ‘Swiss army type knives’, moustache trimmers, with containers to catch the cut hairs and beautiful coffee bean grinders.

This large trunk has a very intricate lock that opens with a key in the very centre.  The locking mechanism is visible on the underside of the lid.  We think it was probably a strongbox for storing money and valuables with such a complex lock.

On the way home we pass Saint-Ouen Abbey, a large Gothic Catholic church that is undergoing extensive restoration.

We walk around behind the cathedral and can see the part that is not shrouded in tarps and scaffolding.  It is magnificent.

There is a little garden behind the cathedral and these miniature cyclamen are in full bloom.

These pillars block traffic unless the driver has the code to make them sink into the road. A favourite pastime of children in Rouen is waiting until a car passes over one of these, they quickly step on top and balance as the post raises up to its original height of about two feet.  

We finally find some houses with dates on them. The brown sign says 1590 and the green on is 1740 or 1711, depending in the last letter is an L or an I.

There is street after street of these ancient homes and shops.  These are only a few blocks from our apartment.

Although the buildings are very old, most of them have new windows.  Good windows help to block out the noise of living on busy roads.

Joan of Arc and the Rouen Cathedral

Day 11 Friday, September 8, 2023

After a sleep in and a bit of a quiet time we walk to downtown Rouen.  On the way I find the cutest little car!Then just two blocks later we see three of its siblings!  These are the perfect cars for parking in France’s cities.There is so much to see in Rouen. I thought this was the Notre Dame cathedral but it is the much smaller St. Maclou Catholic Church.  There are 35 churches, abbeys, monasteries, and ruins in and around Rouen and most of them are from the Middle Ages.Rouen’s Notre Dame Cathedral was the tallest building in the world (151 m) in 1876, and still keeps the record of being the tallest cathedral of France. Photo courtesy Wikipedia.
The inside is awe-inspiring.
This is just one small section of Rouen’s Notre Dame cathedral.  It is enormous! As is their pipe organ, but there was no organ music today.

This stunning staircase leads to a library, unfortunately with no public access.

Much of the cathedral was damaged during the WWII and we wonder if these are shrapnel fragments?

I love this statue of the Madonna and baby Jesus and the light that falls on it.

The statues from the outside of the cathedral have been moved inside to protect them from further damage and the photos below show the process of making replicas which are now on the face of the Cathedral.

Here are some of the originals…

and the replicas. You can see the replica of the first one beside the main door outside.

We are staying for the light show at the cathedral when it gets dark, so we have time to visit the Joan of Arc Church.  The cross marks the spot where she was burned at the stake in 1431, and the church is supposed to represent a boat.

And here is the interior.

I love gargoyles and spot these on a smaller church we walk by near the cross for Joan of Arc.The Gros Horloge (the Great clock) is one of the oldest clocks in France, the movement was made in 1389. It has a different face on either side and it rings on the hour, the half hour and the quarter hour. This fellow spends his time on the street busking for money…only he plays the same song over and over and over.  No variety at all to his performance.

While we waited for the light show at the cathedral I drew the people sitting and walking by. I decided to draw directly in pen, which is a bit more challenging but I am quite happy with several of the drawings.

While I think of it, here are my first metro drawings from Paris.  I forgot to post these earlier.  I was particularly pleased with the top right hand lady, I really captured her well.  I draw with a Bic ballpoint pen when doing my metro sketching. I love how I can get a variety of lines and that the drawing almost looks like graphite.

It is getting dark and people are gathering for the light show in front of Notre Dame.

The show begins and it is spectacular. Here is a little video that gives a better of idea of what we saw. https://youtu.be/r_KhQMqvhIk?si=NFokSZYjIwopCI93

Life Drawing Montmartre and Sacré Coeur

Day 6, Sunday September 3, 2023

I am drawing in Montmarte today and head out on my own while Bob waits for our Airbnb host to come and solve our internet issues.  Life Drawing Montmartre is a Meetup group that I have drawn with before.  This group meets in the basement of a bar.  I forgot to take a photo but found this one on their page. There were twenty of us crammed into this hot  little room, no empty seats today. We had a fantastic Russian female model.My drawing goes better today and we share our work upstairs in the bar afterwards.  I met some lovely people from Australia, Korea, Montreal, England and Italy. The times for each pose are written on the pages.

 

While I was drawing Bob explored Montmartre. Here is the iconic Moulin Rouge…and a busload of British tourists checking out the porn and sex shops!

We have a rest and snack in a little park which contains ‘The Wall of Love’.  This is is a 40-square-metre wall decorated with enamelled tiles containing 311declarations of love in 250 different languages.  The wall includes the words ‘I love you’ in all major languages, but also in rarer ones like Navajo, Inuit, Bambara and Esperanto.

The lady above the tiles is saying “Aimer c’est du désordres, alors aimons “…  Love is disorder, so let’s love!  We walk to Sacré Coeur and take the funicular instead of climbing the 270 steps.  It is 32 ° today!
The Sacré Coeur dome is decorated with a large 480 square meter mosaic.
We decide to stay for mass to listen to the amazing organ music and I took the opportunity to draw the dome.  I find architectural drawing more difficult than figure drawing.  Maybe I will get a bit more practice this trip.
The organ is right above our heads.  I think I am sitting just out of sight behind the left pillar.
After the service we stroll through the church and Bob notices this view of the mosaic in a niche with a view of Jesus above.  The mosaics are amazing, such tiny tiles.
Where is Waldo?  No…where is Bob? Here he is in the first photo.
Can you find him in the photo below?  There are always so many tourists sitting on the steps to enjoy the view. There are still hordes of tourists in Paris.  Us included!
We pass this car on the way home.  Someone is obviously living in it but I have no idea why they feel the need to stick feminine hygiene pads all over the windows!
We are hot and tired, but it was a good day and we are greeted with this beautiful sunset out of our apartment window.

We Are Home!

Day 92, Monday, November 25th, 2019

We arrived home about 9:00 pm. I only got a couple hours sleep last night…no idea why that always happens right before a flight… so I was very tired before we even started our trip home.

We fly to Toronto on the 787 Dreamliner and we are both impressed with this plane.  It is quieter than other planes and the cabin feels more open, less claustrophobic.  We are also told that they use less recycled air and more fresh oxygen, which makes passengers feel better during a long flight.  We were very lucky and had an extra seat between us on both legs of our trip home.  I was able to lie down and slept on and off for about three hours on the flight form Vienna to Toronto.  I actually felt better the we landed after a nine hour flight than when we boarded the plane!  We had a four hour layover in Toronto and then we board for the last flight home.  Here is our next plane, Air Canada Rouge.  Not as big or as comfortable as the Dreamliner, but it is only a four and a half hour flight.  We met this young lady on the flight.  Alexa Kubicki is a 16 year old boxer who was returning home from a three month competition tour. She won 4 international Tournaments and received 4 Best Female Fighter Awards over the last 4 months.  Next year she will compete in the World Boxing Championship and she is aiming to compete in the 2024 Olympics.  I told her I would look for her in 2024. I tried drawing but was so tired that I had problems with proportion.  Not the best likenesses.  I did manage to get another couple hours sleep on this flight so that helped.It was a very long day, more than 24 hours since we left our apartment in Vienna until we walked through the door at home.  First thing we notice is how big our house seemed after all the little apartments we stayed in!   It was a really good holiday but it is good to be home.  This blog is my travel journal of our trip, and I know sometimes the posts were long…so thanks for following along and a special thank you to those who wrote comments or liked a post.

Vienna, Austria

Day 90,  Saturday, November 23, 2019

I go to one last drawing session this afternoon.  It is in a huge gorgeous apartment, with four large rooms used for an art school and three more rooms marked private.  I can only wonder how much an apartment like this would cost!  We had a great model, and snacks and drinks were provided, all for 7 euros.  I am going to miss Vienna’s life drawing sessions.  There is an opportunity to draw every day of the week.

After a few shorter ‘warm up’ poses there is one pose for the rest of the session.  I struggled a bit today, but the model liked the drawing, which is always nice.

Bob comes to meet me after my drawing and we head downtown to the Opera House.  I thought the building where we saw the performers from Tibet was the Opera House, but I was wrong.  We are hoping to get last minute standing room tickets for a ballet tonight. We had tickets booked for an opera tomorrow but got an email that it was cancelled so we are going to try this instead.  It is impossible to get regular tickets at this late date but we are hoping we might get these.Success, we got our tickets!  Here is the inside of the Opera House.     A view of the stage, orchestra pit and some of the seating. This is where we will be standing, at the very back right up under the ceiling!
The ballet is Peter Gynt.  This is a short  four minute video of the ballet we saw.  Here is a brief synopsis of the ballet, from the Vienna Opera House site.  It was certainly a very convoluted story!

“After being banished from his village for stealing a bride on her wedding day, Gynt encounters the Mountain King, a troll. He offers Gynt the chance to become a troll himself – an opportunity to live by his own rules – but he can’t face up to the responsibilities doing so would entail (including fathering the Mountain King’s daughter’s child).

Gynt leads a dissolute existence before returning to find Solveig, the woman who has awaited his return since the moment he was exiled. Bewildered by her reaction to his reappearance – happy and thankful rather than angry and resentful – Gynt is left in purgatory, still unable to resolve what he should have done with his life.”

I did a bit of drawing in the dark during the second act of the opera.  Not easy as the dancers were almost constantly moving.  I would try to fix a pose in my mind and then transfer it to the page, without being able to see what I was drawing. There was just enough light to figure out where I had placed a figure but not enough to see what I was drawing.  Lots of fun!   If you watch the video maybe these scribbles will make some sense.

It was a long time to stand but there was a railing to lean on and the ballet was interesting so the time went by fairly quickly.  When I draw I tend to lose track of the time anyway.  At the first intermission a lot of people standing in the two rows in front of us left. We were able to move to the front of the standing section and had a clear view of the stage, instead of looking between the shoulders of the people in front of us. Bob’s assessment at the end of the evening was “Well, it only took 2 1/2 hours for them (the two lead characters) to die!”  When we went to an opera in Barcelona he commented “It took 3 hours for her (the heroine) to die!

Of course no photos during the performance, but I did take this one during the curtain call. By the time we get down to the main lobby there is just time for a quick photo of the grand entrance staircase… and one of us, reflected in a mirror. Everyone is chased out of the building fairly quickly after the performance.  There are lots of lights on the street outside the Opera House where we catch the metro home.

The Jewish Quarter and Thermal Baths in Budapest

Day 82, Friday, November 15, 2019

We walk through the Old Jewish Quarter this morning.  These murals are on buildings within a block of our apartment. Many of the buildings in this neighbourhood are old and in need of repair but the murals do brighten up the neighbourhood. Bob tells me to look inside this little blue van… It is set up as a little dining room!   It is kind of cute, except I look in the front seat and it is dirty and cluttered with junk.  Not very appetizing,  There are many shops and workshops tucked into the buildings on narrow streets, sometimes even in the basements, like this bike shop.  I think my bike riding daughter will appreciate the sentiment of the sign above this door.
This is probably one of the most colourful doors I have ever seen.The buildings here have very interesting architectural details.
Seems every city we have ever been in has an Astoria Hotel! Loved the room at the top of this white building.  Imagine living there. The Holocaust Tree of Life Memorial was funded by the late American actor Tony Curtis in memory of his Hungarian-born father. The names of 30,000 Holocaust victims are engraved on the leaves of the metal tree.  The tree resembles an upside down menorah and is located on top of the mass graves of thousands of murdered Jews. The tree is located behind The Dohány Street Synagogue which is also known as the Great Synagogue.  It seats 3,000 people and is the largest synagogue in Europe and the third largest in the world.  We didn’t have time to go inside because  we want to go to a thermal bath today.One more interesting building on our way back to our apartment.  The top doesn’t seem to belong to the bottom. The Széchenyi Spa Bath in Budapest is the largest one in Europe, with 15 indoor and 3 large outdoor pools.  Its water is supplied by two thermal springs.  Here is the floorpan of this huge complex.Térkép

 We start out in this pool with a fun whirlpool-like circular ‘river’ that pushes you around it very quickly.   This pools for lane swimming, not for us today. We like this pool as it is warmer than the first one.   Inside there are fifteen more pools.  This is one of the warmer ones and the only one that has comfy lounge chairs, so we stay here for a while.  I sit beside Bob, in the corner and do some drawings of the bathers.  Budapest didn’t have any life drawing classes, or at least none that I could find, so this will do instead.   The building is magnificent but it is starting to show its age here and there.  I think it might need a renovation before too long.  This is a great place for people watching, and we do come in all shapes and sizes! By the time we go back outside it is dark, and the steam is rising from the pools.  We were thinking of taking a boat ride on the Danube tonight but we decide to stay and enjoy more time here.There are more people now than when we first arrived, and most of them are much younger than us.  We see a few other grey-haired ‘oldies’ but we are few and far between.  We spent more than five hours enjoying the baths, and we both feel nice and relaxed.