Day 20, Sunday, September 17, 2023
We are on our way early this morning to catch the ferry to Saint-Malo. Yesterday’s walk was at low tide and there was no water here. High tide was at 9:30 this morning…what a difference. It is cloudy, much cooler and there is a chance of rain today.
The ferry loads right at the top of the ramp, yesterday it was down near the bottom of the ramp.
After a ten minute ferry ride, the captain docks effortlessly at Saint-Malo Take note of how high the water is.
Soon we are walking the ramparts of Saint-Malo.
The walls below are as thick as these walkways.
There are still some cannons protecting this walled city.
.Checking out the view…
…and here is the view. The tide is already starting to go out and more beach is visible.
That dark line on the pillars and the wall is where the water reaches at high tide!
The Etoile du Roy is the second largest replica tall ship in France. For most of the year, she is moored in the port. The Etoile was originally built as the Grand Turk for the British ITV series Hornblower, and has appeared in several films and TV series. it was closed to visitors when we were there, too bad. It would have been very interesting to climb on board.
We visited and art exhibit in a very strange venue…it was full of very large, very old, very smelly engines.
After lunch we visit the Saint-Malo Cathedral. This cathedral was heavily damaged in the liberation battles at the end of WWII where nearly 80% of the city was destroyed. Somehow the walls protecting the city remained undamaged. The cathedral has been restored, keeping faithful to its original form. The stained glass window are beautiful…
and the sunlight shining through them throws colour over the interior of the church.
There are several beautiful modern Biblical paintings.
The rose window is magnificent and the unique altar and podium are glazed ceramic. 
Saint-Malo’s most famous seafarer was not a corsair (pirate) but the explorer Jacques Cartier. Born in Saint-Malo in 1491, it was from his home port that Cartier set out on his first voyage of discovery to the New World, where he was to establish “New France” on the Gaspé peninsula of the North American continent, now a part of Quebec. On a second voyage, Cartier sailed up the Saint Lawrence river, as far as a point where a hill rose up on the north bank of the river. He named it “Mont Royal”… or to use the phonetic spelling of the age, “Mont Réal”. Cartier is buried in the cathedral at Saint-Malo. ~AboutFrance.com
Back to the beach where it is getting closer to low tide. These pillars are wet higher than I can reach.
The tide is low enough to walk to Fort National. There is a flag flown at the fort when it is safe to do this. 
We walk to the fort and Bob finds more old cannons to examine.
The view from the fort to the walled city of Saint-Malo. Just a few hours ago all those rocks were under water and boats were able to sail through here!
This man’s wife was fixing the scarf around his neck as we walked by. Bob chuckled and said this was going to be us in a few years, having our picnic lunches with tea towels on our laps! 
Walking back to the port there is now a swimming pool visible where earlier we could only see the top of the diving board.
This is the same ‘island’ that we saw earlier…
when the tide is higher, and we see boats crossing between it and Saint-Malo.
When we arrived the water was almost up to the white part of this lighthouse..
…and we got off the ferry just above the red arrow on the right of the photo. When we leave to go home we get back on the ferry way down on the bottom left of the photo. It is hard to believe that the water level can change that dramatically in just a few hours.
We have to walk a lot further when we arrive back at Dinard because the ferry could not sail into the main dock. We boarded at the top of this ramp this morning!
A lot of the boats that were in the water this morning are now beached on the ocean floor. We were lucky, the day turned out warm and sunny…no rain.


We discover a semaphore station built in the early 1900’s on the same site as an old lighthouse built in the early 1800’s. There are also more World War II bunkers here. Not surprising since they were built all along the coast of France. The three pillars were to hold radar equipment, but it was never installed, and there are several Tobruks, or machine gun nests.
One of several large bunkers.






















Then just two blocks later we see three of its siblings! These are the perfect cars for parking in France’s cities.
There is so much to see in Rouen. I thought this was the Notre Dame cathedral but it is the much smaller
Rouen’s Notre Dame Cathedral was the tallest building in the world (151 m) in 1876, and still keeps the record of being the tallest cathedral of France. Photo courtesy Wikipedia.
This is just one small section of Rouen’s Notre Dame cathedral. It is enormous!
As is their pipe organ, but there was no organ music today.








The Gros Horloge (the Great clock) is one of the oldest clocks in France, the movement was made in 1389.
It has a different face on either side and it rings on the hour, the half hour and the quarter hour.
This fellow spends his time on the street busking for money…only he plays the same song over and over and over. No variety at all to his performance.



Here is a little video that gives a better of idea of what we saw. 

The church is old and has interesting side aisles with wooden beams and ceilings. As we were leaving I managed to somehow spill most of my thermos of hot tea all over our iPad! The iPad seems OK, but the keyboard case I think is toast. Not very happy about that…





So, we have toast, plums and a banana for supper, and lucky Bob gets a hard boiled egg


Finally after asking several people for directions a delivery man tells me that we need to go upstairs and cross the street. Voila! Success. They do have our reservation but we have to wait 45 minutes for them to clean the car. Once in the car we discover that our Peugeot does not have plug ins for USB’s, only some other strange looking plug. Luckily a Hertz employee was walking by and I asked him for help. Another 15 minute wait and he brings us a device that plugs in to the cigarette lighter that has two USB ports. We are finally on our way, heading to Chartres to visit the cathedral. We do amazingly well getting out of Paris and to Chartres, My navigation skills are still pretty good and Bob did a great job driving.





The view towards the altar. We took several photos of the stained glass but it kept looking very washed out…

The wall of the sanctuary is absolutely amazing. The detail of the carving is incredible. The screen has forty niches along the ambulatory filled with statues telling the life of Christ. I particularly love the donkey.
One more view of this enormous cathedral, before we head back to Paris.
And although some of them are in really bad shape, I have no doubt that they will be repaired rather than demolished.
As we leave I notice another example of street art. I saw another walking back to the car and I thought it looked like a Banksy, and this one could be too? Turns out there is an exhibit of Banksy’s work here in Chartres. We missed that too. 
It is busy when it takes 11 minutes to go just over 2 1/2 kilometres! We are both happy to get home and glad our first day with the car went so well.
Did I mention it was hot? and the steps are winding and narrow, and it was hot! There are 284 steps up to the top, and I am quite pleased that I only have to stop twice to catch my breath. Climbing 74 steps up to our apartment every day is starting to pay off. There are twelve major roads that all converge here in a roundabout (traffic circle) with twelve lanes of traffic. The right of way is the opposite to back home. The traffic in the roundabout must yield to incoming traffic! It seems crazy to us, but somehow it works. In this photo 3 lanes of traffic are trying to merge into one to exit the roundabout!


We spend an hour or so admiring the view, and then we climb down those 284 steps, stopping for a moment at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier…
…and then we walk to the Eiffel Tower. On the way we see this memorial and realize that this is where Princess Diana died in a car crash 26 years ago.



When I was here nine years ago, it was possible to walk around under the tower and there was a wonderful view across the river to the Jardins du Trocadero. You are now allowed to go to the top of the tower but we will wait to do that when we return to Paris and the weather is a bit cooler. There are quite a few heavily armed policemen walking about. The one in the middle is carrying a machine gun!
We find a spot to relax in the shade only to discover that we no longer have any internet on our cell phone! We have had so many internet problems this trip! We are picking up our rental car tomorrow and we definitely need GPS so we use my little paper map book to find a store for the SIM card we bought at the airport. They do register our SIM for us, which is helpful but they also tell us that their internet has been down and may not be repaired until tomorrow. We head to the Orange store and get a second SIM for our second cell phone and then discover that our first connection now works just fine. The price for a month of internet has jumped from the €10 a month that we paid before Covid to €40! Sure hope that is the end of all the internet issues. We are hot and tired, and catch a bus home . We walked almost 16,000 steps today, in +34° weather! And it is going to be +30 for another week!
My drawing goes better today and we share our work upstairs in the bar afterwards. I met some lovely people from Australia, Korea, Montreal, England and Italy. The times for each pose are written on the pages.






The organ is right above our heads. I think I am sitting 
Where is Waldo? No…where is Bob? Here he is in the first photo.
Can you find him in the photo below? There are always so many tourists sitting on the steps to enjoy the view.
There are still hordes of tourists in Paris. Us included!



We were pleasantly surprised though to find that food here was reasonable. I bought a cone of yummy hot roasted potato slices for just 3 euros. There were lots of other affordable food options as well as hot chocolate and hot alcoholic drinks and mulled wines for 3 to 5 euros. There are so many people here that sometimes it is difficult to get to the front of a booth to see what is for sale.
Near the booths is an area with beautifully decorated trees and ….
a skating rink! There is a 3,000 m² artificial ice rink with skating paths throughout the park. We watch the kids learning to skate, everyone is having a good time.
This all takes place under a canopy of the most beautiful trees, all lit up with thousands and thousands of white lights.
Just take look at the size of this tree! It is enormous!
A special attraction is the tree of hearts, and we see couples taking selfies here.
I love all the lights and there is Christmas music playing, children laughing and everyone is enjoying the evening. I am beginning to feel Christmassy!
As we leave the market, I take one last photo looking back towards the Parliament Building…
This is a smaller market, only 70 stalls, and the only decorated trees are the man-made ones.
We see a booth with goods from Bomo Art, the little handmade book store we visited in Budapest.
There are also some pretty crazy animal candles, cute stuffed gnomes, blue and white pottery and wooden boxes and cabinet with drawers. The tall one with six drawers is ‘only’ 350 euros! That is about $500.00 Canadian. Still nothing I really love to take home with us though.
These little pink snowmen were kind of cute…
and a tree decorated with bird ornaments is different. Only at 10 to 15 euros a bird this would be a very expensive little tree! There are at least 150 birds on this tree, so it would cost between 1,500 and 2,250 euros, which is $2000.00 to $3,200.00 Canadian! No bird trees for me!
The booths are centred around this big fountain…
and there are lights projected on a nearby building, adding to the festive feeling.
It isn’t very warm, the high today was only 9° and it is colder now that the sun has gone down. We want to walk and see some of the streets lit up for Christmas …
but we are both getting chilled so we head home to finish getting ready for our trip home tomorrow.


Success, we got our tickets! Here is the inside of the Opera House.
A view of the stage, orchestra pit and some of the seating.
This is where we will be standing, at the very back right up under the ceiling!
The ballet is Peter Gynt. This is
It was a long time to stand but there was a railing to lean on and the ballet was interesting so the time went by fairly quickly. When I draw I tend to lose track of the time anyway.
At the first intermission a lot of people standing in the two rows in front of us left. We were able to move to the front of the standing section and had a clear view of the stage, instead of looking between the shoulders of the people in front of us.
Bob’s assessment at the end of the evening was “Well, it only took 2 1/2 hours for them (the two lead characters) to die!” When we went to an opera in Barcelona he commented “It took 3 hours for her (the heroine) to die!
By the time we get down to the main lobby there is just time for a quick photo of the grand entrance staircase…
and one of us, reflected in a mirror. Everyone is chased out of the building fairly quickly after the performance.
There are lots of lights on the street outside the Opera House where we catch the metro home.