We Are In Paris

Day 1 Wednesday August 30, 2023

It felt so good to arrive at the airport and know that we were finally on our way to France. I am always happy to arrive a bit earlier than necessary just so we can get through security and I can finally relax and look forward to our trip.  Goodbye Edmonton.

Day 2, Thursday, August 31, 2023

Our flight is uneventful and the plane on the overseas flight is full, so no empty seat between us.  Bob is able to sleep but not me.  We arrive in Paris, catch the train to the Gare du Nord, and then a taxi to our bnb.  Our taxi driver only spoke a bit of English but we managed to have a decent conversation in French.

It is rush hour, Paris traffic is crazy and Bob is very thankful he isn’t driving!  We get stuck in a traffic jam close to the apartment.  Nothing is moving, it is chaos with cars, bikes and pedestrians all trying to force their way through an intersection with no regard as to who has the right of way.  We finally get out of the taxi and walk the last couple blocks to the apartment, which is lovely.  After buying a few groceries we are in bed early.  I have been up for 29 hours. Day 3, Thursday, August 31, 2023

We both sleep until noon.  Today has been quiet, mostly getting organized and resting.  We are hoping to get out and about tomorrow.

A New Adventure

 We celebrated a milestone anniversary this year and decided that we needed to celebrate with a trip to France.  I plan to blog on this trip.  It does take a lot of time and I invariably get behind now and then but it acts as our diary.   I think once we are “really old” we can sit back with our cups of tea and travel vicariously by re-reading our blog.  There will be a lot of “remember when…” and “Do you remember that?”  So we will make lots of memories and travel while we can.

We Are Home!

Day 92, Monday, November 25th, 2019

We arrived home about 9:00 pm. I only got a couple hours sleep last night…no idea why that always happens right before a flight… so I was very tired before we even started our trip home.

We fly to Toronto on the 787 Dreamliner and we are both impressed with this plane.  It is quieter than other planes and the cabin feels more open, less claustrophobic.  We are also told that they use less recycled air and more fresh oxygen, which makes passengers feel better during a long flight.  We were very lucky and had an extra seat between us on both legs of our trip home.  I was able to lie down and slept on and off for about three hours on the flight form Vienna to Toronto.  I actually felt better the we landed after a nine hour flight than when we boarded the plane!  We had a four hour layover in Toronto and then we board for the last flight home.  Here is our next plane, Air Canada Rouge.  Not as big or as comfortable as the Dreamliner, but it is only a four and a half hour flight.  We met this young lady on the flight.  Alexa Kubicki is a 16 year old boxer who was returning home from a three month competition tour. She won 4 international Tournaments and received 4 Best Female Fighter Awards over the last 4 months.  Next year she will compete in the World Boxing Championship and she is aiming to compete in the 2024 Olympics.  I told her I would look for her in 2024. I tried drawing but was so tired that I had problems with proportion.  Not the best likenesses.  I did manage to get another couple hours sleep on this flight so that helped.It was a very long day, more than 24 hours since we left our apartment in Vienna until we walked through the door at home.  First thing we notice is how big our house seemed after all the little apartments we stayed in!   It was a really good holiday but it is good to be home.  This blog is my travel journal of our trip, and I know sometimes the posts were long…so thanks for following along and a special thank you to those who wrote comments or liked a post.

Vienna Christmas Markets, Austria

Day 91,  Sunday, November 24, 2019

Today is our last day of holidays!  After packing our suitcases this morning we go out to visit Vienna’s Christmas Markets and see some of the Christmas lights.  The first market we visit is near the Parliament Building. There are 150 booths here but I was a bit disappointed as the majority of them sold Christmas decorations and there were very few other handcrafted items.  I was hoping to find something special as a souvenir for us.
We were pleasantly surprised though to find that food here was reasonable.  I bought a cone of yummy hot roasted potato slices for just 3 euros.  There were lots of other affordable food options as well as hot chocolate and hot alcoholic drinks and mulled wines for 3 to 5 euros.  There are so many people here that sometimes it is difficult to get to the front of a booth to see what is for sale.We enjoy wandering around and as it starts to get dark the Christmas lights come on.
Near the booths is an area with beautifully decorated trees and …. a skating rink!  There is a 3,000 m² artificial ice rink with skating paths throughout the park.  We watch the kids learning to skate, everyone is having a good time. This all takes place under a canopy of the most beautiful trees, all lit up with thousands and thousands of white lights. Just take look at the size of this tree!  It is enormous!   A special attraction is the tree of hearts, and we see couples taking selfies here.I love all the lights and there is Christmas music playing, children laughing and everyone is enjoying the evening.  I am beginning to feel Christmassy! As we leave the market, I take one last photo looking back towards the Parliament Building…then we walk down a tree lit path to the next market a few blocks away.
This is a smaller market, only 70 stalls, and the only decorated trees are the man-made ones.  We see a booth with goods from Bomo Art, the little handmade book store we visited in Budapest. There are also some pretty crazy animal candles, cute stuffed gnomes, blue and white pottery and wooden boxes and cabinet with drawers.  The tall one with six drawers is ‘only’ 350 euros!  That is about $500.00 Canadian.  Still nothing I really love to take home with us though.These little pink snowmen were kind of cute… and a tree decorated with bird ornaments is different.  Only at 10 to 15 euros a bird this would be a very expensive little tree!  There are at least 150 birds on this tree, so it would cost between 1,500 and 2,250 euros, which is  $2000.00 to $3,200.00 Canadian!  No bird trees for me! The booths are centred around this big fountain… and there are lights projected on a nearby building, adding to the festive feeling. It isn’t very warm, the high today was only 9° and it is colder now that the sun has gone down.  We want to walk and see some of the streets lit up for Christmas … but we are both getting chilled so we head home to finish getting ready for our trip home tomorrow.

Vienna, Austria

Day 90,  Saturday, November 23, 2019

I go to one last drawing session this afternoon.  It is in a huge gorgeous apartment, with four large rooms used for an art school and three more rooms marked private.  I can only wonder how much an apartment like this would cost!  We had a great model, and snacks and drinks were provided, all for 7 euros.  I am going to miss Vienna’s life drawing sessions.  There is an opportunity to draw every day of the week.

After a few shorter ‘warm up’ poses there is one pose for the rest of the session.  I struggled a bit today, but the model liked the drawing, which is always nice.

Bob comes to meet me after my drawing and we head downtown to the Opera House.  I thought the building where we saw the performers from Tibet was the Opera House, but I was wrong.  We are hoping to get last minute standing room tickets for a ballet tonight. We had tickets booked for an opera tomorrow but got an email that it was cancelled so we are going to try this instead.  It is impossible to get regular tickets at this late date but we are hoping we might get these.Success, we got our tickets!  Here is the inside of the Opera House.     A view of the stage, orchestra pit and some of the seating. This is where we will be standing, at the very back right up under the ceiling!
The ballet is Peter Gynt.  This is a short  four minute video of the ballet we saw.  Here is a brief synopsis of the ballet, from the Vienna Opera House site.  It was certainly a very convoluted story!

“After being banished from his village for stealing a bride on her wedding day, Gynt encounters the Mountain King, a troll. He offers Gynt the chance to become a troll himself – an opportunity to live by his own rules – but he can’t face up to the responsibilities doing so would entail (including fathering the Mountain King’s daughter’s child).

Gynt leads a dissolute existence before returning to find Solveig, the woman who has awaited his return since the moment he was exiled. Bewildered by her reaction to his reappearance – happy and thankful rather than angry and resentful – Gynt is left in purgatory, still unable to resolve what he should have done with his life.”

I did a bit of drawing in the dark during the second act of the opera.  Not easy as the dancers were almost constantly moving.  I would try to fix a pose in my mind and then transfer it to the page, without being able to see what I was drawing. There was just enough light to figure out where I had placed a figure but not enough to see what I was drawing.  Lots of fun!   If you watch the video maybe these scribbles will make some sense.

It was a long time to stand but there was a railing to lean on and the ballet was interesting so the time went by fairly quickly.  When I draw I tend to lose track of the time anyway.  At the first intermission a lot of people standing in the two rows in front of us left. We were able to move to the front of the standing section and had a clear view of the stage, instead of looking between the shoulders of the people in front of us. Bob’s assessment at the end of the evening was “Well, it only took 2 1/2 hours for them (the two lead characters) to die!”  When we went to an opera in Barcelona he commented “It took 3 hours for her (the heroine) to die!

Of course no photos during the performance, but I did take this one during the curtain call. By the time we get down to the main lobby there is just time for a quick photo of the grand entrance staircase… and one of us, reflected in a mirror. Everyone is chased out of the building fairly quickly after the performance.  There are lots of lights on the street outside the Opera House where we catch the metro home.

Verazdin, Croatia to Vienna, Austria

Day 89,  Friday, November 22, 2019

You may wonder why we went to Verazdin, seeing as there really wasn’t all that much to see or do there?  It has to do with something called the Schengen Agreement. The Schengen Area is an area with 26 European countries that have officially abolished all passport and other types of border control at their mutual borders.

The catch is that you can only stay 90 days in these Schengen Countries once every six months. Our holiday is 92 days, so we needed to go to a country that was not part of the Schengen Agreement so that we would not have any problems.

Most people we have spoken to don’t know anything about this rule…but then most people don’t spend more than 90 days on holidays in a six month period!

However, there are going to be changes to travelling in Schengen countries that will affect anyone travelling to Europe.   “World travelers privileged with visa-free entry to the Schengen member states will also be affected in the near future from recent changes that the EU has decided to implement.  The most important change is that as of January 2021, travelers will need to apply for an online authorization, and wait for its approval before heading to the EU.”

It is very foggy when we start our drive to Vienna, only we soon realize that it is smog, not fog!  It smells awful and bothered my eyes and chest. It clears up for a bit but then we drive back into the band of smog that stretches across the countryside.  We have never seen anything quite like this before.One of the many small villages in Croatia.  Most of these villages only have one row of houses along the highway, no side streets at all.  Notice the pretty yellow and purple chrysanthemums growing along the fence.  We saw lots of these flowers along the way. One fairly long stretch of the road has a shrine every 300 to 500 metres, and each one had fresh flowers placed in front of it. Another little village.  We don’t see many people about and think that they probably have a hard time keeping people from moving to bigger urban centres. The highway mainly passes through farmland, and I quite like all the trees along the side of the road.
We finally get a bit of sunshine.  There are winter crops planted which are just beginning to grow that are many different shades of green. We get to Bratislava about 3:00 pm, return our rental car and catch the Flixbus one last time back to our apartment in Vienna.  We are surprised how quickly it gets dark now.  This is photo taken on the bus just after 4:30pm. We catch an Uber from the Main Bus Depot.  Twenty euros well spent.  We are dropped off at our apartment door, which is the same apartment we had a couple weeks ago in Vienna.  It almost feels like coming home.  In three more sleeps we will really be home.

Verazdin, Croatia

Day 88,  Thursday, November 21, 2019

It poured all day Wednesday, so we both stayed home.  Bob got a much needed haircut and we washed clothes.

Thursday was another quiet day for both of us as well.  Bob went for a walk in the afternoon, but said there wasn’t much happening in town.  I got a chance to work on my blog on both days and with this post I am almost caught up.  Just in time as we only have four more sleeps until we head home.

I found this tiny book in the apartment today.  It is a miniature Gutenburg Bible. It is certainly the tiniest book I have ever seen. Our apartment is the second from the bottom balcony on the left side of the photo.  The end of our street is countryside. I took a peek into the empty apartment building across the street.  One of the empty store fronts on the ground floor looked like someone might have once stayed there. I was startled when a wild cat gave a loud yowl and ran past me to get out the door.  I decided maybe I better not explore any further!

Exploring Verazdin, Croatia

Day 86,  Tuesday, November 19, 2019

The abandoned building across the street seems to be a favourite spot for the neighbourhood pigeons. We drive and park near the centre of town.  Bob shows me the places he explored yesterday.  This is the Verazdin Fortress which is now a museum, and the drained moats are now covered with grass.  There are workmen constructing a skating rink which uses refrigerated lines to make artificial ice because it doesn’t get cold enough for natural ice.  We saw a rink like this in Rome a couple years ago. Here is a view of the grass covered moat which has a path all along the top. They are also building a toboggan slide using the same refrigerated plastic tubing.We walk back towards the centre of the town, looking for a place to have tea. It is a bit chilly outside so we find this cafe.This was our table, in the sunshine by the window.  Bob had a yummy hot chocolate with Baileys and some dessert and I had my usual mint tea. 
In the square outside the cafe workmen are busy getting ready for the Christmas Market and erecting a stage.  Festivities here don’t start until Advent on November 29, so unfortunately we miss the festivities.   Verazdin is called the Vienna of Croatia but we think that is a bit of a stretch.  There are many buildings in disrepair and lots of closed shops.  There are a few people on the streets but it is pretty quiet. Notice the bag of oranges Bob is carrying.  It was about $4 for a big bag of really yummy Mandarin oranges.  Almost everyone we saw on the street was carrying a bag of these oranges so we thought they must be good and we should buy a bag too. Take look at the abandoned falling down building right next door to a neat and well cared for shop. This is a main square and the big building on the left of the photo is empty and boarded up.  Well, almost boarded up, there is an open door and we peek inside the main floor which is empty except for some piles of junk and garbage.
We saw these red candles in a couple of places.  Near the cafe where we had our tea there were lots of them, spelling out the word Vukovar.  I looked it up and found out that there was a siege at the town of Vukovar during the 1990 War.  Over 3,000 soldiers and civilians, including 86 children, died during the siege and the aftermath. There are still over 300 residents missing from that time.  Last Sunday evening, memorial ceremonies took place across Croatia and candles were lit for the victims of Vukovar across the country. 

 

 

Quiet Day in Verazdin, Croatia

Day 85, Monday, November 18, 2019

I am very happy to stay home and have a quiet day but Bob gets restless and heads out exploring.  He walks all the way into town which is about half hour away.  When he gets back we go for groceries.  This is the view towards town and that is Bob in the blue coat. I saw a really neat way to cut open a pomegranate on the internet.  I bought one to give it a try. Firt cutoff the blossom end by making four cuts and pulling the piece out.  I was surprised how easily it came out. Next slice down the length of the pomegranate wherever there is a membrane. And presto, pull the pieces apart.  It worked really well.  This was my big adventure for the day.

Budapest, Hungary to Varazdin, Croatia

Day 84, Sunday, November 17, 2019

We are on our way to Croatia.  Leaving our apartment, the streets are narrow … with not a lot of room…
but we are soon on some wider roads… and crossing the Danube as we start a four hour drive to Verazdin, Croatia.  The Hungarian countryside is much like back home in Alberta.There are a few farms and small villages but the rural areas seem to be sparcely populated.
At the border they checkout our passports and the car registration, then let us pass. We arrive at our new Airbnb around 2:00.  Our apartment is great and there is parking right on the street .  We are right on the edge of the town, with fields nearby. There is also an empty apartment building across the street and two more only partly constructed buildings that look abandoned.  We think the economy here must be struggling. Here is another view across the street from our apartment .  There is a small grocery store on the corner, but not much else close by.