Santillana Del Mar, Burgos Cathedral and Segovia

I am going to try to catch up on my blog a bit, but it will be a long post because I have such a hard time only picking a few pictures.

Saturday, Oct. 3

We visited the village of Santillana Del Mar, which is said to be one of the prettiest villages in Spain.  The town grew around a monastery, La Colegiata, which we visit, after a walk through the streets and some more tapas at one of the local bars. Bob also tried a glass of local cider which the bartender poured, holding the bottle about three feet above the glass.  Very impressive!

La Colegiatas
Several beautiful big old books, but I am only able to view these from a distance…
image  This church has beautiful capitals in its cloister that are amazingly well preserved.imageSunday is a quiet day, figuring out the next part of our trip, packing and tidying our apartment.

Monday, October 5th we are on the road early and head south to Burgos.  The drive takes us through some very interesting, constantly changing countryside. It is very windy and cloudy but no rain to speak of.image image imageWe find parking easily in Burgos, which is a surprise, and head off to the Cathedral.  7€ each to visit and that includes an audioguide, which is very helpful.  It is one of the biggest Cathedrals we have visited yet, and incredibly ornate, with lots of paintings, sculptures, vestments and furniture.  There is way too much to absorb, every where we looked there was something else that was absolutely incredible. image  This is without doubt the most ornate ceiling in the cathedral!imageOn the lower level there is a scale model of the cathedral with reflections on the case from the stained glass windows of the cloister.image  The windows into the cloister.imageWe must always remember to look up when in cathedrals.      image image

We arrive at our next Airbnb after a long day of driving and settle in for the next four days in a very comfortable apartment about 45 minutes outside Madrid.

Tuesday, October 6

Segovia is our destination today.  It is about an hour from our apartment, but the drive goes quickly as the scenery is constantly changing. We want to see Segovia’s cathedral, which is the last great Gothic cathedral to be built, dating from 1525.  Take note of the cathedral tower, because we climb it!

image  This cathedral has beautiful stained glass windows…image  which cast their colours onto the interior when the sun was shining.image

We climb the 185 steps, which are 25 cm high on a 70cm wide staircase to reach the bells in the tower.image  The views are amazing.image imageimage image

After the climb up there is the climb down.  I have to admit my legs were feeling a bit tired by the time we reached the bottom.  The other main attraction is Segovia is the Aquaduct that was built in the first century AD by the Romans and was still in use until the late 19th Century.  It is stunning, and we spend a fair bit of time admiring this amazing feat of engineering. It was made without mortar, just rocks piled on top of each other over 2000 years ago!  It is hard to describe just how incredible the Aquaduct is, so I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

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The sun is setting as we head off for home.image

Castillo de Loarre and San Juan de la Pena

On Tuesday we visited Castillo de Loarre, a beautifully preserved Romanesque church and fortress that was started in 1071, over 900 years ago!  A film called Kingdom to Heaven was filmed there, I think in 2005. This is our first view of the castle.

image These are the ornate windows in the Queen’s tower.image  We had to watch our footing in this Medieval castle.imageWe were surprised by this para glider overhead, then we saw many more of them as there was a jumping off spot on the mountain just behind castle.image

There was an amazing panoramic view of the valley below us…image and this was our view while we had a picnic lunch!imageAfter lunch we headed to the San Juan de la Pena Monastery.  On the way we pass Aguero, a little village nestled at the base of dramatic eroded stone cliffs.  We would have loved to stop and explore, but there just isn’t time. I thought three months would be so much time but there is so much to see everywhere that we have to pick and choose.

imageThe new monastery has an interpretive center built over the old ruins.  It is the modern building  to the right in the photo below. It is a huge long building with a glass floor to view the excavated ruins below.  I find it rather unnerving walking on a clear glass floor!imageimage image

Then we go below and walk through part of the excavations.  There is also another enormous building with more ruins and figures to walk through.image

We catch a bus to the old Monastery which is sheltered under a bulging rock.  It was founded  in 920 and the Holy Grail is said to have been kept here to protect it from the Muslim invaders.  There is a replica in the chapel.image image image

The cloister has beautifully carved capitals with scenes from the Bible.imageWe have a bit of time before the bus comes back to pick us up (there is no where to park near the Monastery) so I start a sketch.

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On the way home we drive through several long tunnels that cut right through the mountains. This one was over a kilometer long!  image

Alquézar

We drove to Alquézar on Sunday.  I am still in catch up mode on my blog, trying to work out the best combination of blogging and keeping a journal.  I really want to do both but it does take a bit of time, so I may have to change my approach, we will see.  This is our first view of Alquézar, a  Moorish village, with its 16th Century Collegiate Church.  We are quite impressed.

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We walk up towards the church, which is quite an uphill walk,  but the entrance is closed off, so we can’t go inside.  We continue our walk along the narrow winding streets and find a little cafe where we stop for tea and a bite to eat.

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The view from here is pretty incredible.  The church is on the right and there are massive cliffs on the left.image

imageThe streets are narrow and often go under buildings.  Notice the feet over the road!image

image We see this fixer upper for sale.  I wonder how much it would cost to buy?  and then how much it would cost to fix up?  Quite a lot I think.  We enjoyed our afternoon here but it is soon time to head to Huesca to find a place to stay tonight.  Bob is doing a good job finding hotels but we are both looking forward to getting an apartment again and staying put for a few days.

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“Winter is Coming!”

We arrived in Girona Wednesday evening and learned that The Game of Thrones was filming part of the sixth season here earlier this month.  Bob is convinced that we could have been hired as extras if only we had arrived a bit sooner!  This our first view of the two Cathedrals in Old Town Girona on Thursday. They definitely look as though they could be used as a set in the Game of Thrones.

imageThis is the Girona Cathedral, we counted, 90 steps to get up to the doors, which are absolutely gorgeous, and we watched a young girl run up and down these steps 6 or 7 times in a row!  Much fitter than either of us, that’s for sure.
imageMy favourite spots in all of Girona are the fortress walls that surround the Old Town and the secret garden spots among the ruins behind the Cathedral.image imageWe watched the sunset from the top of some of these old walls.imageI love the roads, they are all made with pebbles, or lovely old brick tiles.  Not a cement or paved road in sight.  Just imagine how long it took to make all these roads and walkways and stairs.image

We walked around the narrow winding streets, peeking into shops and absorbing the atmosphere.  We head back to our hotel about 8:00. We were only a twenty minute walk away.  Here are a couple night shots.image image

Friday we head back to the Old Town for some more exploring. I love all the interesting details everywhere I look, like this door handle.image

We have never seen a bus inside a coffee shop before.
imageThe streets are very, very narrow, and dark because the sun just doesn’t reach the bottom of them and there are these lovely little passage ways that connect many of the streets.image image  These big stones are old Roman stones from the Third Century!  The walls are such an interesting mix of stones, and bricks and pebbles.  Buildings were torn down and their stones used to build new places, and this happened over and over again.imageWe walked along the base of these city walls trying to find a way on to the top of them,.  We were finally successful and walked along the top of these ancient walls.image

Here is the view from the top.  We walked along the long wall on the far left side of the picture.
image  Next stop was the Arab baths that dated back to the 11th Century.  There were cold, warm and hot baths, pretty amazing technology for that long ago.  And this pool had a “skylight ” above it!image  The same view as the night picture yesterday.image We head home through this park with perfectly spaced rows of trees after having a nice meal near the river in the above picture. image This is our last view of Old Town Girona.image

Montserrat Monastery

We arrived at Montserrat Monastery late Monday afternoon.  It took longer than we thought to get our rental car and we soon discovered that the trunk is too small for two suitcases, oops!  We have been told not to leave anything visible in the car or it will likely be stolen. There are no upgrades available so we decide we can manage to go to the Monastery and then we will come back to Barcelona and get a different car.

The monastery is at the top of a long narrow winding road and it is an incredible place.  Within fifteen minutes of checking in we decide that we should stay a second night.image

We wander about and go to Vespers after supper.  The monks sing and then the boys choir sings by themselves at the end of the service.  It was very beautiful.  We have a quiet evening. We are both tired after all the excitement of the FIre Run last night and the first day driving and navigating.imageWe go hiking Tuesday morning.  We take the Sant Joan Funicular up to the start of the trails.  It is quite the experience riding straight up a mountainside, and of course the views are amazing.

imageThe rock formations here remind us a lot of Cappadocia in Turkey, and we managed to get lost on our hike there!  Hopefully we will do better here.  We decide to do the hike to Sant Jeromi, a 7.5 km hike to the highest point of Montserrat.  The rock formations here are absolutely stunning.image imageSoon we are at the base of Gorra Frigia, and we see three mountain climbers, working their way towards the top.  It looks rather scary to us, but then we aren’t mountain climbers.  imageThe picture above is a close up.  They are near the top of this mountain in the picture below.image imageOur son-in-law climbs so these pictures are especially for him.  We are headed for the top of the middle rock in the center of this skyline.  It looks low here but it is actually the highest point, 1236 meters above sea level.imageThe rock formations are fascinating and the rock is conglomerate rock, so it is full of all sorts of pebbles and rocks in a base that almost looks like cement.imageI think we must almost be there after just climbing several hundred steps but we turn the corner and see….more steps, another 112 to be exact!imageAlmost there!
image  Here we are, tired but what an incredible 360′ view!imageWe can see for miles and miles…

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We have our picnic lunch and enjoy the view and even see a birthday party, complete with cake and candles for a 31 year old Spanish man.  We join in when his friends sing him Happy Birthday which kind of surprised him, and he thanked us afterwards.  On the way down we stop to add a few rocks to these Inuksuk like piles of rocks….image  and see this little Nativity Scene that someone set up, high on the mountain.imageI am intrigued with the rocks on the path.  So many people have walked over these paths that some of the rocks have become polished.imageWe see more mountain climbers, this one rappelled down very quickly and disappeared from sight when we glanced away for a second.  His friends were calling out to him.  We wondered if he was OK?
imageThe sun shone through the clouds, like rays of light from heaven over the Monastery.
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We went back to hear the choir sing one more time.  No pictures are allowed during the services but I quickly snapped this not very good one as they were leaving.  The boys (55 of them) are educated at the  Monastery, and sing six days a week, with one month off during the summer.image

We go back to our room and sit and have tea, looking out the window, just enjoying it all.  We are both quite tired after our 4 1/2 hour hike.

Giants and Dragons

There are so many incredible buildings in Barcelona that I have to force myself not to take too many pictures of them, but I am warning you, there will be a few…  imageWe happened across an exhibition of motorbikes as we were walking, so stopped to have a look.image

I stop for a little rest on one of the many fantastical bench/street lights along our route.image

One more building…image

Bob checking out one of the many book stands that line over three city blocks.  Lots of very old books, magazines, and papers of all kinds.image

This reminded us of when our oldest daughter was four and chased the pigeons in Venice.image

We watched the parade of the city’s Giants.  It was so much fun and they looked so animated, twirling and dancing in the street.image

Of course I loved the dragon!image

More giants…image

After the parade we headed back to the Barcelona Cathedral to watch a competion of three choirs, from the Ukraine, Slovania and Lithuania.  Here is the Slovanian Choir.  It was lovely to sit in such a beautiful Cthedral listening to beautiful voices.image

After the choirs competition we catch the Metro for Barceloneta Beach to watch a fireworks competition.  Tonight it  was the Balearic Islands.  We sat on the beach and this is a bit of what we saw.  This is all part of the  Mercé 2015 Festival.
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Finally, a sneak peak at a life drawing class….image

Barcelona Cathedral and Giants!

We went for a walk yesterday, and it didn’t seem to matter which street we wandered onto, there were beautiful buildings everywhere.imageWe were headed towards the Barcelona Cathedral and decided to walk there, it was about an hour stroll with so many stops to look at everything.The  narrow streets around the Cathedral were intersting and we found these entrancing gargoyles, a unicorn and an elephant!

We walked around the walled cathedral and founf these intriqing gargoyles, a unicorn and an

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We were able to visit the roof of the cathedral but there was something wrong with my camera and all the pictures taken up there look like this.  Interesting but certainly not what I wanted! It was very windy but there were great views of the city, and the bells rang when we were standing up there!image

This Cathedral might be one of the largest that I have ever visited, but of course pictures don’t do it justice.image

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One of my favourite places was the Cloister, which came complete with mossy fountains and geese!imageimageIt was difficult to get a photo of the front of the Cathedral as there were workers putting up some sort of stage, which we later discovered is for a Festival this weekend.image

Just around the corner beside the Cathedral there were some interesting sculptures. There is so much to see here that walking is slow.  One needs to remember to look left, right, up and down! A strange combination, this very modern sculpture and this very ancient Cathedral. We go looking for an address for a Life Drawing Meetup tonight and it is on the same street as the Palau de la Musica, a fanciful building covered in mosaics and interesting decoration.  We will do a tour of the inside, but not today.image

We head home for some food and a bit of a rest before my life drawing, then take the Metro back, just in time to find out that it is happening tomorrow night, not tonight!  So we went exploring for a while.image

These ‘Giants’ were in a nook off a side street. We later found out they will be part of the Festival Parade this weekend. We are forward to seeing that!

Sagrada Familia

We both had a rather restless night so we had a very leisurely morning.  I had an early afternoon nap and Bob went exploring, then we went to check out the Sagrada Familia which is only a short walk from our apartment. This is our first view of this incredible cathedral, which is Gaudi’s greatest work. This is the Passion Facade, which was completed from 1986 to 2000, by the artist Josep Maria Subirachs. It is very different from the Nativity Facade which was completed in 1930, four years after Gaudi’s death at the age of 74. He was run over by a tram while crossing the street near the church to which he devoted forty years of his life.image

We walk around to the other side of the cathedral and stop to watch these little green parrots which nest in the palm trees in the park.  They make an incredible amount of noise! They were difficult to photograph, hiding in their nests and under the palm fronds.

imageThere was a group of young children in the park making wonderful paintings of the cathedral.  imageHere is the other side of the Sagrada Familia, the Passion Facade.  I am looking forward to spending more time here and visiting the inside of this amazing cathedral.  Too tired today for more than a brief visit.imageWe head back to our apartment for dinner and afterwards go for another walk, looking for an English bookstore to buy a guide book for Spain. On the way there I discover a fabulous looking art supply store just a couple of blocks from our apartment.  I definitely need to check it out.

My Last Full Day In Paris

I decide to go back to the Louvre today to do some drawing but on arriving I discover that the first Sunday of the month the museum is open to everyone, so it is absolutely packed, wall to wall people!  Certainly not conducive to study and drawing so I head over to the Eugene Délacroix museum on the Left Bank instead.

On the way I stop in at Saint-Germain-Des-Prés, the oldest church in Paris.  There are marble columns inside that date from 512 AD.  The church has been repaired and enlarged over the centuries and is an example of Early Gothic and Romanesque styles. The church as I saw it today was mostly built in 1163 but it is once again in need of repairs and restorations.

DSC02558This is the view from the north west corner and the sculpture of a head in the bottom right of the picture is by Picasso.

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The view from the front door.  This church was beautifully painted with many stained glass windows high above the church floor.

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The pillars and columns are covered in painted designs…

DSC02536 and I also loved the pillar’s beautiful bases.
DSC02517I was surprised to see that one of the stained glass windows had a small part that opened.  It was very high up, so I have no idea how they get it opened and closed.

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A bust and chandelier were nicely silhouetted against this window.

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The colours are incredible.  Stained glass windows need light to show off their beauty.

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This picture is a bit dark, these cathedrals are always quite dark inside, but it does show the windows that encircle the church.  Just around the corner from the church and down a little side street is the museum I am looking for.

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Here is the entrance to the Musée National Eugène Dèlacroix’ which contains his home and studio.  One of the fascinating things about Paris is the way a door will open onto a courtyard or garden and offer a glimpse into a secret place.  You just have no idea what might be behind one of those big old doors.

DSC02570This is a palette that Delacroix is thought to have given to Henri Fantin-Latour who, like Délacroix prepared his painting palette with great care.

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Dèlacroix’s studio had many of his paintings and lithograph prints and in the house there were many lithograph prints with their original stone printing plates.  He had the studio built to his specifications, with huge north windows and skylights.

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Here is a view of the studio from its private garden. The garden has been recently restored, under the supervision of the gardeners of the Tuileries and due to the generosity of a donor named Mr. Kinoshita.  There were lists of the plants purchased and the work carried out in Délacoix’s archives so it has been faithfully restored, and is a beautiful calm oasis in a busy city.  His home is in the building on the right of the photo, it was quite large and well appointed.DSC02573A view of the garden looking from the studio.  I decide it is time to think about heading home and walk from here towards the Louvre, as I want to stop at their bookstore and a couple other shops nearby.

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There are some sights that are very definitely Parisian.  Do you notice all the parked cars?

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I have no idea how the drivers here manage to park in such tiny spots, or even how they manage to get out of them, but they do!  It is quite something to watch.

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I pass some very interesting looking shops, but as it is Sunday they are all closed so I take some photos through the windows.  Too bad, or maybe good, as I am sure I would have found some fascinating item that I would have wanted to bring home.

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All sorts of curious and interesting things.

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This window was intriguing, especially in light of all the figure drawing I have been doing.

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I snap a couple last photos and head home to get packed and ready for my flight home tomorrow.

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Me and the Mona Lisa!

Here are my metro drawings from the last couple of days.imageimage

Saint-Séverin and Shakespeare And Company

I had a good flight home, and now, the first of the promised posts of my last couple days in Paris.

I had a very nice meal at a little cafe on the left bank overlooking the Quai Montebello which is part of the road which runs along the Seine, and I had a great view of Notre Dame just across the river.  After a leisurely second pot of tea I walked along the Seine down to Pont Neuf to take a few more pictures of Notre Dame in the late afternoon sun.  I am still marvelling at the fact that I was standing on the top of the tower closest to the river.

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The road along both sides of the Seine is the home of the used book sellers. Their iconic green boxes can be seen in many paintings of Paris, especially those of the Impressionist period.   There are 900 boxes along the Seine, three kilometres of used and antique books, old magazines, manuscripts, postcards, as well as stamps, souvenirs, magnets, posters, painting reproductions and even locks for lovers to put on the Pont Neuf.

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I don’t think they should be allowed to sell locks, as the poor bridges in this area are becoming overburdened with all the locks tourists have attached to them. Lovers write their names on a lock, attach it onto the bridge and throw the key into the Seine River.   These locks are removed periodically in an attempt to prevent damage to the bridges but I saw several sections that had boards placed over areas of railing which had collapsed under the weight of thousands of locks. I don’t suppose that all the keys thrown into the river can be good for it either.DSC02277I wander along the streets looking for Shakespeare and Company, but have a hard time locating it.  Along the way I so see lots of other interesting places though.DSC02287

Another interesting art store, but it is closed so I have to be content looking through the windows.

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An interesting mix of automobiles, motorcycles, scooters and bicycles.  The guy looking back had just got honked at and one of the motorcyclists was yelling at him. I think maybe he cut someone off.  He is riding a velib bicycle, one of 20,000 bicycles you can use in Paris, after buying a daily or weekly pass, for 1.7 euros or 8 euros respectively.  The first 30 minutes of each ride are free, so you can ride, exchange your bike for another and keep doing this as often as you want.

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Another beautiful Paris building and one of the many Paris policeman directing traffic.  They love to blow their whistles, and do so very often and repeatedly

DSC02300This plaque is on a primary school wall.  It is in memory of young students who were taken by the Nazis to the death camps. I found the dried flower tucked into the ring below the plaque very touching.

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I find it interesting how the old churches are surrounded by other buildings and shops. This is Sainte-Séverin.  It is very dark inside and it has beautiful ancient and modern stained windows.

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There are a set of seven stained glass windows inspired by the seven sacraments of the Roman Catholic Church.  These two are the Wedding (with yellow tones) and the Confirmation (with red tones) designed by an artist named Jean René Bazaine in 1970.

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A view of some of the ancient windows.

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More windows and the incredible ceiling arches, and then I looked up!

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It is impossible to capture the  grandeur of these cathedrals in a photo.

DSC02334This pillar is the Twisted pillar, very unusual and quite famous.  This church was built  in the early 14th Century, and chapels along the outer aisle were added in1520.  It is one of the oldest churches on the Left Bank, and is still used for services today.

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A  mass was just starting in one of the chapels along the outer aisles while I was visiting. Because it was so dark in the church it was a bit difficult to take pictures.  This one is a bit blurry but gives an idea of the little side chapels that were completed in 1520.

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For some reason the lights on the pillars are green, which gave the place a strange eerie sort of glow.  The guy in the bottom right corner with a ladder was replacing burned out lights.

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This church is badly in need of restoration, it is very old and it shows its age.

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I am still looking for Shakespeare and Company, and pass by a little park and which contains the oldest tree in Paris.  The park it is in is closed but I do get to see this 413 year old tree from the sidewalk.  It has a cement support to help hold it up and was planted in 1601.  I think it is quite amazing that we know when and by whom a tree this old was planted.

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Success at last!  I figure out why I had such a hard time fining this place: it is right along the main road!  I thought it was a couple of blocks in so I was looking in the wrong place entirely.  Bob and I visited here last time we were in Paris and thought it was a pretty fascinating place.  It has an interesting history as it started out as a private collection of books.  Much too long a story to get into here but do look it up if you are at all curious, it is a very curious and intriguing tale.

DSC02345You are welcome to use this old typewriter or just sit and read in this room.  It has a collection of books that are not for sale, only for reading.DSC02349

There are several beds in this bookstore, including the upper bunk bed behind the curtain here.  People are still allowed to spend the night in the bookstore.  Really, do go read about all this!

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The bookstore is a maze of rooms and hallways, on two levels.

DSC02357Here is a view of the store.  Sometimes if I wait a bit I am able to take photos without list of people, but no luck here.  This is a very busy place.  It is getting late so I head for home, walk back to the Cité Metro station which is on the other end of the same island as Notre Dame.DSC02362

The cathedral is quite beautiful all lit up at night.

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Cité is one of the art Nouveau stations designed by Hector Guimard.

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This is a picture of some of the rail lines of the Dare du Nord taken form the Metro on the way home.  Do you see me?

This is a long post, but I did promise lots of pictures!