Day 12, Saturday, September 9, 2023
The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen is an art museum in Rouen, that was established by Napoléon Bonaparte in 1800. It is just the right size for an afternoon of browsing. These are some of my favourite portraits…
…and some views from just a couple of the 60 rooms in the museum. 
Bob noticed that the orange lines on the walls converged to make perfect circles on the mirror. Look closely and you can see our reflections.

I love Modigliani and was happy to find three of his paintings here as well.

I found this painting rather curious. It is King Henry III who reigned from 1574 until he was assassinated in 1589. It does not seem typical of paintings of the 16th century. The artist is unknown.

There are several Monet’s including this famous one of the Rouen Cathedral, which he painted many times.
There is a room full of beautiful intaglio etchings and drawings of Rouen in 1878 by Emile Nicolle. 
I wondered if it would be possible to find any of these sites today, so Bob took this photo and later we found pretty much the exact position that Emile Nicolle must have stood to make this. Some of the older buildings have been replaced with larger new ones so part of the view is blocked but it is the spot!
The landing of the grand staircase of the museum had a huge glazed terra cotta sculpture that I quite liked.
We had a rest and our picnic in a little park right beside the museum and watched children at play. Several times I thought someone was going ot fall off this crazy ‘slide’. But thank heavens, no one did. I am pretty sure this would not pass safety standards back home.
The buildings in Rouen are really old, many of the post and beam type are from the 1500’s. The roofs are crooked, the walls slant and the floors are certainly not always straight although this doesn’t show as well in photos as it does in real life
This one building was really unique. Notice the specially constructed windows to accommodate the slanted area on the left…
…and again on the end of the building. The windows here are straight but the building definitely is not so the window frames are built to accommodate this. It is especially noticeable on the second floor, which is the first floor here.
On the way home we see more gargoyles…
a very cluttered tiny shop…
and walk down a very lovely old street with running water and plants.
Before we see the Dürer exhibit we visit the other parts of the museum. There are 20 decorated and restored Habsburg State Rooms with precious wall coverings, chandeliers, fireplaces and stoves, inlaid floors,
The chandeliers in this room were very beautiful.
The most interesting thing in these rooms was the art exhibit on the walls. We have a print of this Hieronymus Bosch drawing at home. Unfortunately the drawings and prints are facsimiles. Very good ones, but facsimiles non-the-less. This is necessary as works on paper are fragile and can not be displayed for long periods of time. 
Now on to the main event!
I took so many photos but have chosen just a few of my favourite ones for today’s post. Here is ‘Three Studies of Dürer’s Left Hand’ 1493/94. I like drawing hands and feet and there is much to learn from Dürer.
This page of studies was so interesting.
Here is another drawing I have seen so often in books.
‘The Woman’s Bath’ is a pen and ink drawing…
and this ‘Illustration for the Apocalypse’ is a woodcut. Dürer was a master of all mediums.
Dürer’s watercolours are exquisite. This painting is simply titled ‘Iris’.
A watercolour study of a ‘Blue Rolle’r from 1500.
We enter another room and there on the far wall are three famous works. Dürer’s ‘Young Hare’ is only exhibited once every five years for a period of no more than three months. It is just luck that it is on exhibit while we are here. This is another print that we have at home. Bob wishes it was the original!!
‘The Great Piece of Turf’ was painted on the largest piece of paper available at the time to portray the plants life sized.
‘The Wing of a Blue Roller’ is quite amazing. This work is watercolour and body colour on parchment with fine gold lines on the breast plumage to enhance the iridescence of the feathers. There is no one telling visitors to keep a certain distance from the works, so my nose gets up very close!
I liked the study of a bull’s nose too…
and this ‘Columbine”…
and this page of studies.
OK. I love pretty much everything I see here! This head of an angel and head of twelve year old Jesus are studies for a larger painting …
as is this hand study. It is fascinating to see the studies and then the finished painting.
‘The Praying Hands’ is a well known Dürer image.
I really didn’t know much about Dürer’s oil paintings. I particularly loved this one. The Madonna’s face is so beautiful.
Dürer drawing and woodcut of a rhino were made without his ever having seen a rhinoceros! He drew from a written description of the animal and his imagination.
I have always loved this ‘Portrait of a 93 Year Old Man’. I didn’t know it was done with a brush!
As we are leaving the museum I see this Modigliani painting ‘Prostitute’. I have always liked Modigliani’s work but haven’t really see very many in person.
One last photo at the Albertina. Seems I want to sprout wings this trip!
We spent four hours here today and I could easily have spent much more time here but this will have to do. I bought the catalogue for the exhibit. It is huge, and weighs 6.6 pounds! Good thing we are near the end of our trip!





