Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen

Day 12,  Saturday, September 9,  2023

The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen is an art museum in Rouen, that was established by Napoléon Bonaparte in 1800. It is just the right size for an afternoon of browsing. These are some of my favourite portraits…

…and some views from just a couple of the 60 rooms in the museum.

Bob noticed that the orange lines on the walls converged to make perfect circles on the mirror.  Look closely and you can see our reflections.

I love Modigliani and was happy to find three of his paintings here as well.

I found this painting rather curious.  It is King Henry III who reigned from 1574 until he was assassinated in 1589. It does not seem typical of paintings of the 16th century.  The artist is unknown.

There are several Monet’s including this famous one of the Rouen Cathedral, which he painted many times.

There is a room full of beautiful intaglio etchings and drawings of Rouen in 1878 by Emile Nicolle.

I wondered if it would be possible to find any of these sites today, so Bob took this photo and later we found pretty much the exact position that Emile Nicolle must have stood to make this. Some of the older buildings have been replaced with larger new ones so part of the view is blocked but it is the spot!

The landing of the grand staircase of the museum had a huge glazed terra cotta sculpture that I quite liked.

We had a rest and our picnic in a little park right beside the museum and watched children at play.  Several times I thought someone was going ot fall off this crazy ‘slide’.  But thank heavens, no one did.  I am pretty sure this would not pass safety standards back home.

The buildings in Rouen are really old, many of the post and beam type are from the 1500’s.  The roofs are crooked, the walls slant and the floors are certainly not always straight although this doesn’t show as well in photos as it does in real life

This one building was really unique.  Notice the specially constructed windows  to accommodate the slanted area on the left…

…and again on the end of the building. The windows here are straight but the building definitely is not so the window frames are built to accommodate this.  It is especially noticeable on the second floor, which is the first floor here.

On the way home we see more gargoyles…

a very cluttered tiny shop…

and walk down a very lovely old street with running water and plants.

Dürer Exhibit at the Albertina Museum, Vienna

Day 72, Tuesday, November 5, 2019

I have been looking forward to visiting this Dürer Exhibit.  I only found out about it in Munich at a drawing Meetup.  This exhibition is the most comprehensive Dürer exhibition  in decades.  It really is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!

It is raining today so it is a good day to spend inside. We purchased our tickets online so no waiting in the lineup!Before we see the Dürer exhibit we visit the other parts of the museum.  There are 20 decorated and restored Habsburg State Rooms with precious wall coverings, chandeliers, fireplaces and stoves, inlaid floors, and exquisite furniture. We pass through these fairly quickly, we have seen quite a few of these kinds of rooms on this trip and I am more interested in the Dürer exhibit.  The floors are beautiful with inlaid wood designs.  We notice that the floors we walk on are actually reproductions placed over the original floors in order to preserve them.  If you look closely you can just make out the seam lines of these rectangular reproduction tiles.

The chandeliers in this room were very beautiful. The most interesting thing in these rooms was the art exhibit on the walls.  We have a print of this Hieronymus Bosch drawing at home.  Unfortunately the drawings and prints are facsimiles.  Very good ones, but facsimiles non-the-less.  This is necessary as works on paper are fragile and can not be displayed for long periods of time. 

There are so many works that I am familiar with and some, like the Munch woodcut that are new to me.  These are: Munch’s The Kiss IV, two Schiele watercolours, Rembrandt’s Elephant, and Rubens’ drawing of his son Nicolas.
Now on to the main event!

It has been decades since so many works by Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528) have been seen in one place.  There are more than 200 examples of Dürer’s drawings, printed graphics, and paintings on display at the Albertina.

This ‘Self Portrait at the Age of Thirteen’ from 1484 is the first work that I see when we enter the exhibition rooms. I took so many photos but have chosen just a few of my favourite ones for today’s post. Here is ‘Three Studies of Dürer’s Left Hand’ 1493/94.  I like drawing hands and feet and there is much to learn from Dürer. This page of studies was so interesting.   Here is another drawing I have seen so often in books.
‘The Woman’s Bath’ is a pen and ink drawing… and this ‘Illustration for the Apocalypse’ is a woodcut.  Dürer was a master of all mediums. Dürer’s watercolours are exquisite.  This painting is simply titled ‘Iris’. A watercolour study of a ‘Blue Rolle’r from 1500.We enter another room and there on the far wall are three famous works.  Dürer’s ‘Young Hare’ is only exhibited once every five years for a period of no more than three months.  It is just luck that it is on exhibit while we are here.  This is another print that we have at home.  Bob wishes it was the original!! ‘The Great Piece of Turf’ was painted on the largest piece of paper available at the time to portray the plants life sized. ‘The Wing of a Blue Roller’ is quite amazing.  This work is watercolour and body colour on parchment with fine gold lines on the breast plumage to enhance the iridescence of the feathers.  There is no one telling visitors to keep a certain distance from the works, so my nose gets up very close! I liked the study of a bull’s nose too… and this ‘Columbine”… and this page of studies.   OK. I love pretty much everything I see here!  This head of an angel and head of twelve year old Jesus are studies for a larger painting … as is this hand study.  It is fascinating to see the studies and then the finished painting. ‘The Praying Hands’ is a well known Dürer image. I really didn’t know much about Dürer’s oil paintings.  I particularly loved this one.  The Madonna’s face is so beautiful.
Dürer drawing and woodcut of a rhino were made without his ever having seen a rhinoceros!  He drew from a written description of the animal and his imagination. I have always loved this ‘Portrait of a 93 Year Old Man’.  I didn’t know it was done with a brush!   As we are leaving the museum I see this Modigliani painting ‘Prostitute’.  I have always liked Modigliani’s work but haven’t really see very many in person.   One last photo at the Albertina.  Seems I want to sprout wings this trip! We spent four hours here today and I could easily have spent much more time here but this will have to do.  I bought the catalogue for the exhibit.  It is huge, and weighs 6.6 pounds!  Good thing we are near the end of our trip!

I have a Life Drawing Meetup session at 7:00 pm and want to have a bit of a rest before that.  I just realized that I posted tonight’s life drawing photos in yesterday’s blog by mistake!  After being on holidays for so long it is easy to mix up the days.

Académie and LaRotonde

Two drawing sessions today, six hours. I decided to use some Derwent Drawing Pencils I brought with me.  The are softer than coloured pencils, look like conté a bit,  but they don’t smudge like conté.

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5 Minutes poses

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15 minute poses

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20 minute poses.  The model had a tummy that made her look like she was pregnant but I’m pretty sure she wasn’t.  Nice to draw in any case.

The male model this afternoon had a very muscular build but he was also very tall so he had extremely long legs and arms, broad shoulders and the tiniest waist.

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Very beautiful to look at but very difficult to draw.  By the end of the three hours I was just beginning to get familiar enough with his body to figure out how to get him on paper.

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I met two very nice ladies today, and we went for drinks after class to LaRotunda which had many copies of Modigliani paintings on display, one of my favourite artists.  Turns out this is quite a famous cafe, founded in 1911 and frequented by Modigliani, Utrillo, and Picasso, along with Hemmingway, and many other painters and writers.  Often when the poor artists couldn’t pay their bills  they would  pay with a piece of artwork.  My pot of mint tea was 5€, about $7.00 Canadian, but worth every cent.  It arrived on a tray in a silver looking tea pot, with an additional pot of hot water.  Very elegant and we sat and visited for almost two hours.  A lovely time.

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It was almost dark by the time I headed for home, so had to take photos under artificial light again…sorry,  not the best, but better than waiting until tomorrow to get it done.