Gargoyles and Chimeras

Today was the day to climb to the top of Notre Dame!  It is 400 steps to the top and another 400 to get down, and it was worth each and every step! While I was waiting in line, for an hour, I took some pictures of gargoyles from the ground.

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I need to warn you, there will be a lot of pictures in today’s post, and I am only going to do the first part of the day, or this would be ridiculously long.

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The climb up wasn’t too bad as it was broken half way at a shop where you buy tickets.  Soon I am 46 meters above the ground and face to face with my first Chimera.  These are ornamental sculptures which are depictions of monsters or mythical beings.  This Stryga, or bird of the night, is one of the most famous of Notre Dames chimeras.  Interestingly the stone these carvings are made from is full of sea shells!  You can see Sacre Coeur in the distance.

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You probably aren’t supposed to pet them, but I just had to!

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The view from up here is quite spectacular.  I am in the area between the two towers.

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And there are more chimeras and gargoyles everywhere I look!

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There were windows that were too high to look into, but I held the camera up to the glass and this is what was inside.

image After another 150 steps I am at the top of the south tower of Notre Dame and the view is even more incredible from this height, 69 meters above the ground.  Here is a different view of Notre Dame’s famous flying buttresses.

imageimageIt is easy to understand how densely populated Paris is when you see all the buildings so close together from up here. The population density of Paris ranges from a low of 8,000 people per square kilometre, in areas near Notre Dame, for example, to a density of 42,000 people per square kilometre in the area where my apartment is and other arrondissements in the north and north west of Paris.  I can barely fathom 42,000 people living in a square kilometre!

imageimageThere are sculptures everywhere I look. Dragons on this steeple,

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and more gargoyles high on this tower.

image I manage to stay up on the top of the South tower while three or four groups come up, they allow a group every ten minutes or so, but eventually we all get chased off so the next group can arrive, so I head down the 400 stairs to the bottom.  On arriving at ground level I look up, and surprise!  More gargoyles!

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I was on the walkway between the two towers, and on the top of the south tower.  If you look closely you can see people in these two pictures.

imageimageThe average visit is 50 minutes, I am up here for over two hours!  It was an amazing experience!

Saying Goodbye to Académie de la Grande Chaumiére

Today was the last day of drawing at the Académie de la Grande Chaumiére, and I felt quite sad when I left.  I really loved the time I spent here, and this week I have had several conversations with some of the artists drawing there.  I guess it took a while for me to feel comfortable enough to do so, and today several people came and initiated conversations with me, which was really nice.  Here is ‘my spot’ in the studio

imageI came back for one final look around before heading to the Musee d’Orsay. The stools get stacked at night so the studio is ready for a painting class in the morning.

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I am really going to miss being here.  This intensive life drawing experience has convinced me that  I need to do this more than once a week when I am home.  I often  didn’t even manage to go every week, but I am determined to change that.

I made my way to the Musée d’Orsay, which used to be an old train station and now is the home to an impressive collection of art, especially the works of the Impressionists and the Post Impressionists.

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The museum is open till nine tonight so I have almost two and a half hours, which isn’t all that much time.  Two of the floors of the museum were closed for renovations, which in a way was good, as there was less to see!  There are a lot of Monet’s paintings here.  One of the things I realized as I walked around was the sheer number of paintings these artists produced, and this is just one museum, their works are in so many other museums around the world.  It shows that it is essential to actually make art if you want to get good at it.  Completing two or three pieces a year just isn’t enough to make a difference in the quality of your work.

imageimageSome of the paintings are surprisingly small and then there are those that are vey big! I managed to see most of what I was interested in, but realized I could easily spend at least a couple of days here studying the work more closely and doing some drawings as a way of studying as well.

My focus this trip was life drawing, but I am thinking that I could very easily come back and spend more time in the museums in addition to the life drawing.  Maybe one day in the not too distant future….

I discovered that it is possible to go out on the roof of the museum and take some pictures.  It was getting dark but they give an idea of the view.  Here is the Louvre across the Seine, and Sacre Couer in the distance. You can see that it is definitely on a hill!

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I asked someone to take my picture, so here I am with the Louvre behind me.

All too soon it is nine and the museum closes, so I head home.  It is late and I am busy drawing on the metro and I miss my stop!  I have to go quite a bit further to connect with a line than will take me home and it meant many more flights of stairs and a long walk, probably two blocks at least, through underground tunnels until I got to the station I needed. I counted stairs today and on the trip to the Academié there are over one hundred stairs to climb or go down, and that is just one way!  And it is also probably the least number of stairs of all the trips that I make on the metro.  No wonder there aren’t many overweight Parisians!

imageI took this picture in a mirror on a corner, (so people don’t crash into each other? ) and didn’t realize there were lines all over my face till now!  It is after midnight, so I will post the last of my drawings at the Académie tomorrow  morning when I am not so tired and there will be better light to take the pictures.

Drawing Meet Up and Sacŕe Coeur

Another full day.  I went to a drawing meet up in Montmartre, in the smallest theater I have ever seen.  It has seats for nine audience members and the tiniest stage.

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Here is a view of the inside and some of the people who attended, the model is sitting on the stage.

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It was at the top of a big flight of stairs. Montmartre has stairs everwhere, as it is built on a hill overlooking Paris.  I certainly got lots of exercise today.

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We had a nice model, who is an actor an a dancer.

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I decided to play with some different media, this is pastel pencil.  The light wasn’t very good for photgrphs by the time I got home, but I decided to do the best I could so that I could post pictures tonight.

 

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After our drawing session we all went to a local cafe for refreshments, a visit and a chance to look at each other’s sketchbooks.  One of the ladies told me that she came for a visit for a month,  five years ago, and she is still here!   Hmmmm….

As I was only a couple of blocks from Sacre Coeur, I wandered over for a brief visit.  It is certainly a busy place!

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I decided to go home, get something to eat and then come back for the six o’clock Vespers, which are sung by the nuns.  Bob and I did this the last time we were in Paris and we really enjoyed the experience then and it was just as wonderful today.  There was a service right after Vespers so I was there for about two hours, sitting drawing the cathedral and the nuns while I listened to their beautiful voices.  It was a wonderful experience.

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imageThe notes at the bottom of the page are from the hour or so I sat before the service started.  A guy  was talking, non stop, to a girl that I don’t think that had known for very long. He expounded at great length on his philosophy of life and religion, and pretty much everything else, including how his birth caused him breathing difficulties his whole life and what he is doing to try to resolve that.  Then he said, ” This is the first time in my life that I have ever been 100% honest with anyone”. It seemed that the lady was falling for all of it, but I thought that she should run as fast as she could!  He sounded like trouble to me, and he was very full of himself, but it was rather entertaining to listen to it all.

When I left the Cathedral it was raining, and I walked home with my pretty blue umbrella, smiling and thinking “I love Paris in the sunshine, I love Paris in the rain”

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Here are a few drawings from the Académie de la Grande Chaumiere yesterday.  I decided to try something new, and used a big brush and a watercolour wash with a quick pencil drawing over top while it was still wet.  These are five minute drawings, a bit of a challenge, but fun.  It certainly made me loosen up a bit.

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The male model was a very interesting older man with a great big moustache and a bit of a big belly too!  I think he must have been quite a strong muscular man when he was younger.

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I am going to an artist’s studio near where I bought my sim card in the 15 arrondissement tomorrow, for another  life drawing session.  It is quite close to the Eiffel Tower so I may stop there for a visit, we will see how the day goes.